Sicily is having a moment – here’s where to stay and what to see …
Whether it’s a wedding, anniversary, engagement or birthday, Sicily has become a hotspot for “celebration vacations”, according to a survey by Citalia. Yet, it has long been a magnet for those searching for art, architecture, sandy beaches, mountainous landscapes, and for foodies who love to feast on local specialities such as arancini, pasta alla norma and cannoli. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries the island was part of the Grand Tour, when it was a cultural hub for bohemians, artists, aristocrats and royalty. Expect a further spike of interest following Dua Lipa and Callum Turner’s recent wedding in Palermo, and Dolce & Gabbana’s Alta Moda show in Taormina’s botanical gardens, Radicepura.
D&G’s show was a love letter to Taormina as it was there, in 2012, that they originally launched their couture universe rooted in Italian culture. Everything is romantic about it, perched on a cliff overlooking the Ionian Sea, from its sun-soaked pebbled beaches to the ancient romance of its Greco-Roman amphitheatre, where Greek ruins frame breathtaking sea views. Wander along the cobbled Corso Umberto and stop at the Piazza IX Aprile, where the baroque Church of San Giuseppe impresses. The elegant square is characterised by open-air bars, artists and live music.
There’s no shortage of showboat hotels: Belmond has two properties, including the Grand Hotel Temeo and Villa Sant’ Andrea – both immaculate and iconic, as is the San Domenico Palace, the destination of the second season of The White Lotus. This former monastery overlooks the Ionian Sea and was a favourite with starry guests such as Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor and Greta Garbo. Befitting a Four Seasons hotel, facilities and service are excellent – try the stargazing safari on Mount Etna. The star attraction is undoubtedly its infinity pool, around which are loungers and parasols decorated in D&G’s signature Palme motif.
More affordable is Hotel Taodomus, a light, bright boutique townhouse in the centre of town near the Corso, which comes alive at night. Though, why go out when the hotel terrace is so dreamy? Order its twist on the Aperol spritz with ginger, lemon, chilli and rosemary.
Follow in Dua Lipa’s footsteps by visiting Palermo, an ancient port on the island’s north-west coast. It’s home to the magnificent Teatro Massimo, Italy’s largest opera house. Built in the late 19th century, it still hosts world-class opera, music, theatre and dance. Start the day at Prestipino Café or dive into the animated Mercado del Capo, where locals shop. For some art, follow Dua’s lead and visit the Galleria D’Arte Moderna, where she was given a private tour of the gallery’s 19th and 20th century masterpieces. Afterwards, cannoli lovers should try the Segreti del Chiostro – a pastry and cake shop in the Santa Caterina convent courtyard.
Dua and Callum stayed at Villa Igiea, a posh art nouveau hotel originally designed by architect Ernesto Basile, where an entire floor was booked for their guests including Donatella Versace, Charlie XCX, and DJ Mark Ronson and his wife Grace Gummer. No doubt they enjoyed the spa facilities – treatments use Irene Forte products made from Mediterranean herbs and flowers – as well as its lush gardens and ldecor of frescoes, plants and textiles, created by Olga Polizzi.
Dua’s wedding venue was Villa Valguarnera, just outside Palermo. The historic mansion is also known as “little Versailles”, such is its grandeur. It has served as the backdrop for Netflix miniseries Il Gattopardo (The Leopard) and for a D&G perfume campaign with Sophia Loren. The villa is available to rent.
Also characterful (and not requiring an A-list budget) is the Palazzo Planeta, owned by one of Italy’s leading winemaker families. The Palazzo houses nine self-catering apartments and offers guests the flexibility of cooking, if they wish, with complimentary welcome baskets included. It’s located beside Spinnato, one of Palermo’s most historic cafés, as well as Il Mirto e la Rosa around the corner. A must-visit are the markets of Capo and Victoria short strolls away to stock up on supplies.
Fly into Catania and you’re close to Noto, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which I found intoxicatingly beautiful on my last visit that coincided with its annual Infiorata – a flower festival in May, which sees the central Via Nicolaci decorated in Baroque floral displays. It’s a fragrant memory; in fact, Noto feels like it’s been permanently bathed in golden hour light, in part because of its architecture. As you stroll along Corso Vittorio Emanuele, you’re surrounded by honey-hued sandstone buildings and sweeping baroque facades with intricate balconies. It’s hard to miss the fairytale Cathedral with Baroque details.
Stay at Il San Corrado di Noto, a former masseria or farmhouse, now an ode to minimalist restraint surrounded by olive groves and ancient citrus trees. Pack John Hooper’s The Italians to read by the pool or on the private beach. Dine at Anche Gli Angeli – a fun trattoria housed in an 18th century crypt. I also visited the Vendicari Wildlife Nature Reserve, where flocks of pink flamingos are the draw. On my next trip, I’ll book a visit to the studio of artist Sergio Fiorentino who lives in an old monastery decorated with his artworks that are a hymn to the sea and his surroundings.
Tucked along Sicily’s Tyrrhenian coast, Cefalù is a snapshot of everything we love about Italy. From its grand Norman Cathedral to the ancient Roman Baths, it feels more relaxed. For some privacy, stay at Le Calette just outside the old town – a family-run beach hotel where Harrison Ford stayed while filming Indiana Jones 5.
Mangia’s Pollina Resort is a clifftop haven with sweeping views over the Tyrrhenian Sea, multiple pools and a private beach. For an all-inclusive experience, Club Med Cefalu is less Love Island and more luxurious with private villa-style accommodation, and plenty of water sports and activities.
For those looking to explore further, Madonie National Park is home to mountain landscapes, traditional Sicilian villages and hiking trails. At the top of La Rocca is the Temple of Diana, an ancient site dedicated to the Roman goddess of the hunt. A must is booking a trip to one of the Aeolian Islands. Lipari, the largest, with its volcanic cliffs tumbling into crystal waters and hidden coves, is one of Sicily’s best-kept secrets. Stay at the modest yet mesmerising Hotel Rocce Azzurre near the marina. The only problem you’ll have is that you may not want to come home …
