If you have a few days spare, head to London to overdose on culture, coffee – and a Charlotte Tilbury-approved New York-style jazz and cabaret restaurant …
Yes, it’s hot in the city. But there’s so much to see, do and eat. Here are our hot tips from a recent trip, for a perfect few days in London.
THE LUXURY DESTINATION
The brand-new Hermès flagship store on New Bond Street is a veritable museum of luxury goods. This is the ultimate Maison of all things Hermès, from leather handbags to shoes, lipsticks and everything in between, plus a tea room. It brings together six historic townhouses into one vast temple of beauty, over five storeys. Each of the 55 rooms has its own identity and paint colour, and it’s worth visiting to be inspired by the sheer finesse of the finish.
My favourite was the top-floor bathroom, in glorious, vibrant lipstick red, to match the rhubarb-scented hand soap. From the Victorian lift to the Katie Scott-designed botanical wallpaper in the beauty room and the dazzling, Escher-like central spiral staircase, designed by Foster + Partners, this elegant store elevates the shopping experience – even when purely looking – to a whole new level.
THE EXHIBITION
Don’t miss this. Book in advance for Marilyn Monroe: A Portrait at the National Portrait Gallery, until September 6. This is a glorious celebration of the actor and screen icon (one time the word “iconic” is genuinely justified). It also offers many other faces of Monroe alongside the one we are familiar with via Andy Warhol’s screenprints, a version of which is on show here along with other art works.
We see not only her vulnerability, but also her power and intelligence – she was rare in founding her own production company in the 1920s, and took control of how she was presented. She comes across as someone who really loved her audience and just loved to perform, echoing Elvis Presley. And so many of the images are breathtaking, from the epitome of a screen goddess on top of the world in New York City, to bare-faced beauty on the beach. Unforgettable.
THE STREET
My current favourite street is Chiltern Street, W1, just a few minutes from Selfridges (I stopped in there to see the new Marc Jacobs make-up collection, but thought it looked gimmicky and cheap – lots of tacky accessories – though I’m clearly not the target market, it’s more for teenagers. The eyeliners, made in Germany, are your best best, at £22stg and in an array of bright colours).
Head to Perfumer H, the most chic perfume store in town, and smell Lyn Harris’ signature pure, simple yet complex scents such as Rain, Dandelion and Smoke. Ink is, quite rightly, the bestseller. The Bergamot bathroom collection is new, and divine. Take home a glass bottle as a souvenir (unless you’re travelling Ryanair, of course).
The Bella Freud store is a shrine to the designer’s singular style and all things 1970. It’s like a museum. The summer sale is worth a look, and we love the Je t’aime Jane rug and 1970 mugs and posters that sit alongside the sharp tailoring.
While you’re in the area, stop into the charity shops: I found a pair of Saint Laurent tuxedo trousers for £80stg in the Marylebone Road Oxfam. Also on the Marylebone Road is Daunt Books, one of the best bookshops you’ll ever visit. Pick up Dad Had A Bad Day by Ashton Politanoff, a tennis-themed midlife crisis novel to make you laugh out loud.
THE COFFEE STOP
The Shreeji newsagent on Chiltern Street is also called The Villager, a gorgeous newspaper and bookshop serving coffee. This is the perfect people-watching spot, and it’s dedicated to analogue – a celebration of print. A specialist newsagent since the 1980s, this is a place to come and be phone-free for a while. “Offline is the new luxury”, says the noticeboard outside.
In the Covent Garden area, it’s always Monmouth Coffee Company: the best beans in town. But for brunch there’s an exciting new arrival. Head to nearby Neal’s Yard, a hidden delight, for Buvette. It’s only opened this year, but already feels like an established treasure. I first went to the hugely popular New York branch on Tim McGee’s advice in The GLOSS, and so I was thrilled to see a new London opening. Buvette’s legendary fluffy eggs – try them with salmon and creme fraiche – make the perfect breakfast. A lovely airy spot.
THE BEAUTY STORE
While you’re in Covent Garden, book in for a Tilbury Transformation at the spacious Charlotte Tilbury store by the market, which has its own treatment room. Ask for Julie – she’s lovely, and will leave your skin glowing with Magic Cream.
THE HOTEL
If you’re blowing the budget, book in to the NoMad, right opposite the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden. Previously the Bow Street Magistrates Court and Police Station, this 90-room hotel has a fantastic location, comfortable stylish rooms and friendly staff. The dream.
Far more modestly, though, the Hub by Premier Inn Covent Garden does the job, and is right in the middle of theatre and restaurant land, but well-soundproofed.
THE SHOW
Speaking of the Royal Opera House, you can currently catch an outstanding production of La Boheme – and it doesn’t have to cost a fortune. I booked a standing ticket for £23stg and sobbed through the entire glorious show, next to veterans in their seventies and eighties, who live locally and have the system sussed.
THE DINNER
Go French and treat yourself to lunch or dinner at Henri, by chef du jour Jackson Boxer. It’s an elegant, cool space and the food is divine, from the crisply fresh carrot râpée salad to the perfectly cooked steak frites. The set menu, £29stg for two courses and £33 for three, could be the best-value brilliance in town. On no account miss the bread and creamy butter – it’s insanely crunchy and delicious. There’s a chef’s table beside the kitchen that is like being inside a very calm episode of The Bear.
For an all-out fancy dinner, head to The Maine Mayfair – its Brasserie feels like a New York jazz club, complete with live music and cabaret and a ginormous chandelier. This was Charlotte Tilbury’s restaurant of choice for a recent dinner, and the glamour is appropriately dialled up. Think champagne, lavish platters of seafood and steak, and a very fun, noisy and slightly chaotic atmosphere. One for celebrations.
SEE MORE: Checking In – The Goring, London SW1
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