A Spanish safari getaway in sunshine-soaked Trasierra …
One of my favourite places in the world is Trasierra in southern Spain, home of Charlotte Scott and her brood of fascinating children, who drop in and out of the running of this former hotel. Nowadays, it operates as a private rental and has to be booked out in its entirety, which means a more sustainable way forward for the estate. Suppose you like the kind of posh and casual family vibe of Ballyvolane in Cork where Justin and Jenny Green treat you like their favourite relative, serving delicious food, pots of tea and rhubarb martinis. Let’s just say that Trasierra has that same relaxed feel, but with lots more sunshine.
Gracious and discreet hosts, plus exquisitely furnished details blend with an air of luxury that comes from years of good taste and a razor-like focus on what defines hospitality. For some, it’s golf courses, Michelin stars and spas. Trasierra is as far away from chinos and hi-tech screens as you can get. Instead, it’s a perfect blend of home cooking, night lights and comfortable interiors. Shabby chic isn’t really fair as it’s lovelier than that, but it’s not slick in any way. When I saw that one of her children had started his own riding safari holidays in the same region, it promptly went on my bucket list as he has the best training in how to be the consummate host.
It’s easy not to make time to do these things, but as the years rolled on and I reluctantly embraced my 50s, the ink became more visible on said bucket list. The youngest child is a keen enough horse-rider, so she was the perfect plus-one for this outdoor adventure. The first night, we got to stay in Trasierra as one big group enjoying a communal dinner of olives, cured Iberico hams, cheeses, salads from the kitchen garden, wines and sherry. I’m far too discreet to name drop, so all I will say is that this kind of holiday attracts a certain style of traveller who would be horrified to go holidaying in Dubai.
It’s an all-in adventure and the allure of a glass of sherry or rosé and superb home cooking cannot be underestimated, especially against the backdrop of balmy heat and stunning interiors. After an evening listening to tales, everyone wandered off to their rooms to drown themselves in sumptuous pillows and soft, crisp sheets – a wonderful sleep followed by the joy of waking up to a breakfast spread. We slowly got ourselves booted and suited to get saddled up in the stables.
We set off for what was the gentlest and most soothing few hours I’ve spent in years. We were there during a killer heatwave, so the pace was slower than usual, but halfway through the day we got to stop by a shaded area where the horses grazed, and we were equally fed and watered. Plus the lure of a snooze in the midday heat under swishing trees.
This is a digital-free place with plenty of time for contemplation. It’s a bit Out of Africa and, although riding for so many hours a day can take its toll when you’re a little out of practice, the following evening in Rajasthani tents and shower under the trees is a fantastic way to ease sore bones. You arrive at camp, dusty and exhausted, then shower before walking to the top of the hill to watch the sun set before being led to beautifully laid tables for a barbecue feast washed down by local wines. The following day, pop-up lunches in another scenic lakeside location seemed to fill our senses for a year.
This holiday is not for everyone – while perfectly kitted out the tents are rustic and the riding is long – so the shoulders of the season are probably better for hours in the saddle. There are insects and brambles, low branches and communal facilities, plus you need a decent level of skill to be able to ride each day for up to five hours. You can’t be precious or expect room service, but for me it’s the best blend of adventure, luxury and food in incredibly beautiful landscapes – a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to have an Andalucian adventure with my daughter that I will absolutely treasure. Three days is plenty and you can finish the trip with one night in Seville for a small blast of civilisation.
Photography by Georgina Preston
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