The show notes for Chanel haute couture spring summer 2023 didn’t explain the presence of giant corgis on the catwalk – which along with kittens, rabbits and swallows were embroidered on coat dresses and tweed two-pieces – as a nod to the late Queen Elizabeth II, but the 51 looks certainly proposed a modern fairytale. The show, which took place yesterday in Paris, at couture fashion week, was an out and out dedication to feminine flounce: celebrating the delicacies of dressing with pleats, tulle, taffeta, organza, georgette crêpe and Chantilly lace.

So far, so expected for Chanel. What was new this time? For this excursion Chanel creative director Virginie Viard was inspired by “the poetry of majorettes”. Kitsch! But, of course, completely elegant. As if marching in a village parade, models took to the runway in top hats, white gloves, laced boots, satin capes, jackets that were double-breasted or with tails, tuxedo shirts and sequins. 

Looks emerged from eleven monumental animals made of wood, cardboard and paper created by Xavier Veilhan, who took inspiration from the many animal motifs in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31, rue Cambon. As well as the presence of bow ties, which we might argue could overtake the fashion world’s current obsession with XL hair bows, here are three trends we spotted, and loved, on the runway.

All images: Chanel.

Alongside lace-up boots, tying into the majorette theme models glided down the runway in gold low-heeled ankle boots, complete with a glossy black toe-cap. We can already see these becoming catnip for the Instagram set, as metallics are set to be a huge trend for spring summer 2023. (See our upcoming February edition, on shelf Thursday February 2 for the full low-down on new trends.) It’s good news for getting dressed, too. Essentially, gold footwear goes with pretty much everything in your wardrobe, so you don’t need to worry about matching. We say: twist expectations and slip on a gold shoe for daywear, with jeans and a cool knit. 

Short and ultra flouncy, the miniskirt reigned supreme for Chanel haute couture spring summer 2023. Where there weren’t minis, there were short shorts, or dress coats that equally got the memo on high hemlines. The lack of towering heels and the presence of classic tweed made the look demure and youthful. It was a friendly reminder of the rules of proportion: if you’re going to wear a short skirt, make sure your sleeves are long, your neckline reasonably high and your heels are low(ish). (Wearing Chanel helps, too.)

Gone are the heavy pleats and frills we’ve seen on runways the last few seasons, designed more to be viewed online than worn IRL. Instead, the devil is in the detail with micro pleats and frills in diaphanous fabrics that feel light and spring-like. Even better when that detailing is on a tweed suit which is the kind of classic, understated glamour we’re embracing for occasion dressing this season.