The countdown is on, and no doubt the pressure is mounting for celebrity stylists dressing the nominees and presenters ahead of the 95th Oscars. Here’s our take on some likely red carpet trends …
Archival
This awards season, duchesses and film doyennes alike have been rummaging through their wardrobes and repurposing formerly worn dresses with new accessories, statement jewellery or sartorial tweaks. For inspiration, look no further than A-list stylist Elizabeth Stewart, whose client Cate Blanchett looked stunning in a black Maison Margiela gown at the recent BAFTAs, which she had previously worn to the Oscars in 2015. Fortunately John Galliano was on speed dial to make some discreet tweaks while Stewart added a new necklace. Keeping on message, this was both stylish and sustainable, and was designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof for Louis Vuitton made from re-purposed Tahitian pearls and a tourmaline from a previous Vuitton design.
Blanchett is a nominee for Best Actress – her Oscar eighth nomination – for Tár, and may stick with a vintage gown, adopted most notably by Renée Zellwegger in 2001 (who wore a lemon Jean Dessès gown from the 1950s) and Julia Roberts who wore vintage Valentino when she won Best Actress for Erin Brockovich.
Provenance is everything when it comes to vintage on the red carpet. Fortunately, some stylists can borrow archival pieces directly from fashion houses, while others are regular clients at New York Vintage in Chelsea, New York or Tab Vintage in LA. Another great source is Julien’s Auctions, LA, from where many of the fashions on show at Newbridge’s Museum of Style Icons are sourced.
#mermaidcore
This year #mermaidcore was notable at the Golden Globes where actresses including Jessica Chastain (pictured wearing an Oscar de la Renta gown), Margot Robbie and Michelle Williams amped up their inner aquatic siren, wearing gossamer chiffon, iridescent, or paillette-encrusted gowns which shimmered like fish scales. A slight variation on the theme are pearlescent dresses – such as the column dresses shown in Dior Couture’s SS23 inspired by Joséphine Baker’s costumes.
Some also embraced #mermaidcore make-up characterised by slicked back (or wet) hair, fluffy brows and glossy cheeks and lids – Jones Road Miracle Balm is an essential item for this look.
This figure-hugging silhouette with fishtail hemline shows off Pilates-honed bodies to perfection. I can see Nicole Kidman, one of the presenters at this year’s Oscars, nailing #mermaidcore.
The Naked Dress
The fashion equation of the less worn, the more headlines generated makes the transparent trend a guaranteed Oscar winner. This year’s iteration of the former 90s trend, shown at Prada, Coperni and Valentino, has a rebellious twist. “Freeing the nipple” or showing your underwear is now seen as a powerful feminist statement – adopted most notably by Florence Pugh – giving a woman the choice of how much or how little skin she wants to flaunt.
As seen at the recent Paris Fashion Week, this trend is set to continue through AW23 collections (though may be a bit nippy when the temperatures drop!). Designers such as Victoria Beckham and Mrs Prada at Miu Miu showcased see-through “net” dresses, sparkly knickers worn with polo-neck sweaters, and oodles of toned abs and legs.
For further coverage of Oscar fashion and the winners, read a full report on Monday, March 13.
