What Valletta, the EU’s smallest capital, lacks in square metres, it makes up for in grandeur and great hotels …
Often described as an open-air museum, the discreet allure of Valletta has always appealed to discerning travellers. It’s been named as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is home to some of Europe’s finest palaces, churches and artworks.
Founded in 1565 by the Knights of St John, its original aim was as “a city built by gentlemen for gentlemen”, and this posh spirit remains. The fortified city walls overlook the Med and enclose picturesque side streets filled with quaint cafés, concept stores and gourmet restaurants.
With direct flights available from Dublin, it’s also got guaranteed sunshine. High summer temperatures and low rainfall are countered by warmer winters, including a “second spring” around October time.
Here’s where to stay on your next visit:
Casa Ellul
This weekend, July 12-13, Chef Mickael Viljanen of Dublin’s Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen leads a special dinner in Risette, the elegant restaurant at Casa Ellul, named after one of the current owner’s maiden aunts. Mickael is joining the restaurant’s chef, Steve Scicluna, to cook a menu based on locally-sourced, deluxe ingredients, from local grouper, green olives and native red prawns, to black truffle and Kaviari Krystal caviar. If that sounds tempting, then do book this boutique townhouse for a fabulous foodie retreat. Scicluna’s menus at Risette change weekly, and focus on contemporary Maltese dishes with a strong French and international influence.
As for the hotel, it’s tucked away on a quiet street and has just nine suites all with elegant tiered balconies. Some suites (6 and 7) have their own private terraces for panoramic city views. This is the perfect boutique bolthole a short stroll from one of the city’s contemporary cultural hubs, including the Manoel Theatre. www.casaellul.com
Iniala Harbour House
This Maltese masterpiece is housed in a meticulously restored 19th-century palazzo. Standout features include a grand staircase, frescoed ceilings, an impressive art collection, a spa in its basement vaults and a rooftop fine dining restaurant. You can see a trio of cities from this vantage point (Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua). ION Harbour will be known to fans of Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, where he works with ION Harbour’s executive chef Oli Marlow sourcing specialist suppliers and their produce (from spear fishermen to salt farmers) to use in their elaborate tasting menus. The hotel is close to St John’s Cathedral, where visitors coo over Caravaggio’s The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist and its exquisite craftwork, while Gozo is a dream day trip accessible by boat from below the hotel. www.inialamalta.com
The Phoenicia
This iconic Art Deco hotel is a destination in itself with gorgeous gardens, indoor and outdoor pools and a fabulous spa. Royal fans will know it’s a favourite of the British Royal family – if you recall in The Crown, Queen Elizabeth II stayed in Malta as a young bride when Prince Philip was posted there between 1949-1951. The Phoenicia became a favourite haunt – her signature in the guest book is on display in the lobby.
The hotel has undergone a recent renovation. Despite its regal legacy, rooms are unpretentious – fresh, summery and supremely comfortable and most have balconies. The hotel has great views across the city as well as an ample choice of restaurants from relaxing pool bars to brasseries and its glamorous Phoenix Restaurant. www.phoeniciamalta.com