Designers have a clear message for SS25: skip trends and embrace individuality in an “anything goes” season …
There’s a collective move away from clothing that fits into a specific “aesthetic” popularised by social media. Moving on from quiet luxury and the uniform-like minimalist styles dominating previous seasons, SS25 collections celebrate colour, print and a sense of individuality. Rainbow brights take centre stage, welcoming the return of playful colour combinations.
At his debut runway show for Valentino, the fashion world’s favourite maximalist, designer Alessandro Michele seemed to dip into a dress -up box of statement-making accessories – ruffled collars, lace tights, polka dot gloves, silk turbans, floppy wide-brim hats with feather quills. While Prada’s Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons sent seemingly incohesive looks down the runway, from coloured tights to bright sporty anoraks.
“Let this be a lesson for the new season: be unpredictable – and write your own rules. Ignore what the algorithm tells you and dress how you really want to.”
In an era of information overload, the show notes revealed, “Humanity can be defined by its unpredictability, a rejection of the derivative and expected”. Ignore what the algorithm tells you and dress how you really want to.
Layer a dress over trousers. Pass over pastels in favour of bolder colours. Mine your grandmother’s wardrobe for kitschy florals. Wear a skirt whose tassels make an entrance everywhere you go. Clash prints. Try blue eye shadow. Wear skinny jeans, or barrel-leg jeans, or whatever jeans actually suit your shape. Add charms to your handbag. Wear a tutu!
In a world that’s been ruled by trends that come and go faster than you can say “brat girl summer” this is a welcome invitation to take a step back. It’s time for a return to true personal style, whatever that looks like for you.
RAINBOW BRIGHTS
Valu
ON THE RUNWAY: From bubblegum pink (Simone Rocha, Jil Sander) to mellow yellow (Chloé) and bright, fiery tomato red (Jacquemus, Louis Vuitton, Bottega Veneta), the SS25 runways presented a kaleidoscope of colours.
HOW TO WEAR: Don’t be afraid to colour block bright shades; pairings of moss green and burgundy were seen at Victoria Beckham, and fuchsia and rich purple at Dries Van Noten.
LONG SHORTS
ON THE RUNWAY: Long Bermuda-style shorts featured heavily in collections from brands such as Ganni and Dries Van Noten. They offer a fresh, elegant, more refi ned alternative to the laidback silhouette of traditional (shorter) shorts.
HOW TO WEAR: Style with blazers or shirts for a tailored look. Wear with everything from buckled flats to pointed-toe courts.
LUXE DENIM
ON THE RUNWAY: Jeans are taking on a new level of versatility: anything goes. We spotted jeans of all widths and washes.
HOW TO WEAR: Pair with everything from sharp blazers to casual tees. Barrel-legs look good from desk to dinner (add a fancy belt and heels). Wide-legs work best with a more fitted top for balance. Commit fully with denim on denim. Front-seam jeans are the season’s newest and most wanted style.
SEE MORE: Our Guide To Wearing Denim Jeans, From Desk To Dinner
PLAID + STRIPES
Burberry
ON THE RUNWAY: Stripes and plaids make a bold return, dominating runways (at Chanel, Prada, Acne Studios, Bottega Veneta) with a fresh, updated twist in airy fabrics and soft colours.
HOW TO WEAR: Don’t be afraid to be playful – style stripes with checks and even throw in polka dots for good measure.
SKIRT MANIA
ON THE RUNWAY: Maxi styles at Chanel, Proenza Schouler and MaxMara, curved bubble silhouettes at Stella McCartney, tulle at Simone Rocha and sculptural minis at Loewe, skirts are a designer favourite for SS25 and easy to incorporate into your existing wardrobe.
HOW TO WEAR: Dress down with a shirt and ballet flats or lace-up leather oxfords, or elevate with fashion girl pumps. Get creative and layer over trousers or leggings.
FASHIONABLE FLATS
Miu Miu
ON THE RUNWAY: Schoolgirl loafers got a modern new look on the runways at Tod’s, Loewe and Miu Miu, taking some of the formality out of these classics.
HOW TO WEAR: Pair with chunky textured socks as seen at Miu Miu or with relaxed, sporty looks at Tod’s. Massimo Dutti, Cos and H&M all offer luxe versions on the high street. Opt for a square toe with scrunched leather for the most current feel.
BOBBIES PARIS
Chestnut Nicky leather loafers, Bobbies Paris, €220, at Seagreen, The Crescent, Monkstown, Co Dublin and Ranelagh, Dublin 6.
EAST-WEST BAGS
ON THE RUNWAY: Shallow rectangular with long handles, “east-west” bags have made a return to the handbag space, as seen at Hermès, Christian Dior and Khaite. If this shape is not for you, look at curved-edge ‘doctor bags’ (similar to the real thing) or anything suede and slouchy.
HOW TO WEAR: For daytime or evening, wear with long handles slung over your shoulders or nestled in the crook of your arm like an oversized clutch.
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