You know summer is en route when pearls start emerging on, and outside, the catwalks. It could be their tie with the sea, or how intrinsically linked they are with bridal style; it could be how wonderful they look when they reflect sunlight – whatever the reason, in my experience, pearls always step back into the spotlight once warmer weather is on the way.
As a gem, they have always had certain preppy, conservative (and dare we say twee) connotations, but over the last few seasons, there are interesting things happening. Designers are playing with shapes and proportions – and rethinking how these traditional gems can be worn, in turn spinning our idea of jewellery on its head. Wild metal cuffs snake around ears; charm-filled belts emerge from the 80s with a fresh look for this decade. Hoops, another trend for SS20 in their own right, are adorned. Their simple, pure form is the ideal juxtaposition to fresh, dramatic design.
Sophie Bille Brahe is the queen of cool pearls; her current collection of earrings references bunches of grapes and are so fashion forward in their feel you’d be forgiven for thinking they were costume before realising the lustrous gems are precious and mounted on 14ct gold.
Mizuki also fashions their pieces in 14ct yellow gold; their cuffs need to be seen worn to be believed (and understood); net-a-porter as a great selection and styles them beautifully, while Saskia Diez works from Munich producing some really exciting and eye-catching pieces with a focus on sustainable manufacturing.
Botticelli-Grand earrings, €1940, Sophie Bille Brahe
Double pearl ear cuff, €289, Saskia Diez
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