The ultimate guide to holidaying in Ireland, from Kerry, Clare and Cork to Connemara, the Aran Islands, Fermanagh and Down …
CONNEMARA AND THE ARAN ISLANDS
A visit to Inis Mór, the largest of the three Aran Islands, is a must – a chance to wander and wonder. The island can be reached via regular sailings with Aran Island Ferries, from Rossaveel or Galway City, from €34. An overnight stay is optional; the Aran Islands Hotel has comfortable, no-frills sea view cabin rooms, from €190. @aranislandshotel
Aran Islands Glamping also has pods overlooking the sea at Frenchman’s Beach. @aranglamping
Non-negotiable is a tour of the island (I took a gentle, informative carriage ride with islander Thomas Faherty) taking in its dramatic Dún Aonghasa cliffs, Blue Flag beaches and historical sites (among them The Seven Churches and Poll na bPéist wormhole). Yoga followed by a dip at Cill Rónáin Beach and some cycling will work up an appetite.
Stop for a coffee at the Seal Colony Café (@sealcolonycafe) – low tide is the best time to see the seals – feast on crab and lobster rolls from one of the Aran Seafood Café trucks (@aranislandseafoods), run by local fisherman Bertie Donohue and his wife Niamh, or book dinner at Joe Watty’s Bar and Restaurant. @joewattys
Back on the mainland, 60km away in Leenane, Delphi Lodge in the mountainous Delphi Valley exudes rustic luxury. Guided walks, fishing and lake excursions, plus dining on local game and seafood, are all part of its half-board stays, from €345. @delphilodgeireland
At Fernwood Farm in Clifden, guests can stay in treehouse domes, bothies or stilt houses. These stylish perches provide scope for reliving childhood fantasies and soaking up the stunning scenery. From €220. @fernwood_farm
From there, island hop to Inishbofin (from Cleggan pier) and explore its distinctly Caribbean white sandy beaches and turquoise waters. You’re likely to hear some corncrakes – there are several pairs on the island. Book a room at the family-owned Murray’s Doonmore Hotel which has just been renovated. Enjoy fresh crab claws while listening to local musicians who play into the wee hours. @doonmore_hotel
The Beach Day’s Bar, by the harbour, is a local hub for visiting yachts and ribs and is a great spot for watching the comings and goings of the islanders, and for great views of Cromwell’s Fort.
Put Sauna Bó Finne on your bucket list, where private saunas on the beach have views of the Twelve Bens and Croagh Patrick. From €20. @saunabofinne
Don’t leave without browsing the Studio Shop, where artist Lol McClean’s seaweed prints and ceramics provide mementos of happy days well spent. @inishbofinartisan
CO CLARE
In the heart of Liscannor, Dolly’s Café combines coffee and community in a charming space. Having holidayed there for years, Dublin-based Elaine Slattery seized the chance to restore a derelict cottage into a warm, welcoming café and community hub. Dolly’s quickly became a local favourite. Upstairs, the airy space hosts everything from yoga and cookery demos to poetry recitals and exhibitions.
Downstairs, you’ll find excellent pastries from Hugo’s Lahinch, and locally roasted coffee. It remains a go-to bakery stop for surfers and sea lovers, whether you’re just out of the water or heading to nearby Doughmore for a hike. Doggies are welcome too! @hugos_lahinch
In New Quay, don’t miss the legendary Linnane’s Lobster Bar. Once a humble post once and pub, it now serves up one of the best seafood platters on the west coast. Share the “Flaggy Shore Dainties” (a local signature) or the warm seafood platter of lobster, prawns, clams, and mussels with a glass of crisp white.
Just outside Newmarket-on-Fergus, Dromoland Castle isn’t just a five-star hotel, it’s an experience that feels both grand and surprisingly personal – the real magic is in the atmosphere. Staff greet you like you’ve been coming for years. Wander the grounds in the early morning and you’ll likely have the lake path or the walled garden to yourself. The spa is low-lit and peaceful. Quietly unforgettable, in that very Irish kind of way.
Russell’s Cottages in Doolin provide a stylish stay for couples, families or groups. Part of the Russell’s Bar and Fiddle + Bow collective, the cottages are steps away from Doolin’s pubs, with excellent seafood and nightly traditional music. Each cottage is beautifully designed and ideal as a base from which to explore the Burren.
Nearby is Homestead Cottage, the restaurant run by Robbie and Sophie McCauley which was awarded a Michelin star last year. Book well in advance! @homesteadcottage_doolin
CO MAYO
Fans of the award-winning Misunderstood Heron – formerly perched above Killary Fjord and hailed by Lonely Planet as one of the world’s top ten coolest food trucks – will be thrilled by its new home at BigStyle Lodge at P Dan’s, Killadoon, near Louisburgh, which has a terrace with incredible sea views. While you’re there, try The Big Dipper, a wood-fired sauna and hot tub with front-row seats to the waves crashing below.
Charming and colourful, Westport is one of Ireland’s liveliest small towns. Grab brunch at Cornrue Bakery (buy the sourdough to take away). In the evening, enjoy live music at backto- basics-in-a-good-way McGing’s Pub (Thursday to Sunday), or stop into the legendary Matt Molloy’s, for nightly traditional Irish music. Don’t miss Staunton’s Pub, a family-run gem just outside town, offering local pints and scenic views of nearby Croagh Patrick.
All eyes are on new hotel, The Grace, named after pirate queen Grace O’Malley, being built on the grounds of Westport House. The local Hughes family, owners of Portwest have big plans for The Grace, due to open in spring 2026 and the refurbishment of 300-year-old Westport House.
On Achill Island, swim at Keem Bay, one of Ireland’s most beautiful beaches. In Keel, about 8km away, Ar Bia Mara’s seafood truck serves up locally caught calamari, scampi and monkfish, Thursday to Sunday. As the sun sets, cosy up at historic Lynott’s Pub in Cashel, a 200-year-old thatched cottage perfect for a quiet pint.
If you’re passing through Swinford on the Dublin Road, don’t miss Jimmy’s Irish Coffee Drive-Thru – a one-of-a-kind coffee stop. @jimmysirishcoffee. There’s also a branch in Ballina.
A short spin from Ballina is the village of Foxford – make time to visit the Foxford store and newly expanded café there.
For wellness activities in the wilderness, try the new Valentia Island Escape. Weekends are designed to help guests unplug, reconnect, and rejuvenate. There’s quirky accommodation, from restored retro caravans to a double-decker bus, a charming boathouse, a stone cottage and a luxe Airstream. Each retreat includes two nights’ bed and breakfast, with lunch and dinner inspired by the local landscape. Forage for seaweed, have a yoga session, or take a scenic hike or breezy e-bike excursion with panoramic views of the Skelligs. At night, there are guided storytelling and stargazing sessions – Valentia Island is part of the Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve with spectacular night sky views. @valentiaislandescape
Ballygarry Estate in Tralee has swish new (adult-only) Nordic-style cabins, overlooking the Sliabh Mish mountains; wander in Ballyseedy Woods, wildflower meadows and integrated wetlands. @ballygarryestate
At the Park Hotel Kenmare, “A Colourful Life” features talks with creatives such as designer Joanne Hyne and interior designer Geri O’Toole, with a new exhibition showcasing the work of renowned French photographer Gilles Caron.
In Lauragh, half an hour outside Kenmare, visit An Síbín, a new café and wine bar in a quaint old pub.
In Killarney, The Europe is getting better and better – book one of its recently redesigned lakeview rooms, and make sure to leave time for a treatment in the spa – the views over Lough Léin from the indooroutdoor vitality pool and relaxation room are spectacular. @theeuropehotelandresort
No trip to Dingle is complete without dinner at Out of the Blue, still the standout seafood restaurant in the town (book in advance).
Firm favourite The Fishbox has opened a new seafood bar, Fish Outside The Box, offering fresh chowder and lobster rolls to take away, with limited seating in its outdoor courtyard. @thefishboxdingle
Heading to Dingle for the day? Pick up coffee and a pastry at Bean. @beanindingle
Take a detour when driving from Tralee to Dingle and stop off at Brandon Bay Sauna in the Maharees Peninsula, near Castlegregory Beach. @brandonbaysauna
CO CORK
For a perfect base from which to explore West Cork, book the recently renovated Foxglove Cottage, a ten-minute drive from Ballydehob, Bantry, Skibbereen and Schull. On a rainy day, the cottage is warm and inviting with a sideboard filled with books and board games; on a sunny day the terrace is a suntrap for breakfast and birdsong. There are lots of gorgeous walks and cycle routes nearby, including the Skibbereen Loop 3 cycling route; www.foxglovecottage.ie.
In Ballydehob, sauna fans should book a stay in a Native Cabin in order to experience the Native Garden Sauna’s new wellness experience. This combines aromatherapy, foraged tea, and scents and botanicals sourced from local herbalist Jen Doran. New self-catering cabins by Native will launch later this year; www.native.ie.
Ophelia Keane of Carpa Dining at Inish Beg Estate
While there’s no shortage of enticing restaurants around West Cork, for a new, unique dining experience try Carpa at the family-run Inish Beg Estate, on a private island accessed by road bridge from the Skibbereen-Baltimore road. Chef Ophelia Keane offers private dining for up to 30 guests in Carpa’s bright, glazed sunroom, and from this summer, is also offering special feasting experiences on the estate – the greenhouse for an intimate dining experience surrounded by plants, the orchard, the woods, or the shoreline, for a seafood feast cooked over fire. Available for overnight guests and non-residents, and for two up to 20 guests, innovative seasonal menus are based on what is ready to harvest in the estate’s gardens; www.carpa.ie.
Do leave the car at home when heading out for dinner and drinks. The new 266 bus route connects Baltimore, Skibbereen, Union Hall and Castletownshend for the first time ever on a public transport service. A good excuse to visit Nolan’s in Union Hall – the former coffee house has reopened as a bar with quaint, quirky design and cosy rooms to hide out in on a rainy day.
Baba’de
In Baltimore, a table at Baba’de (the sister restaurant of two-Michelin star Dede at The Customs House) is still the hottest reservation in town during the summer months.The Turkish mezze style menu is perfect for a casual dinner; www.babade.ie.
The terrace outside Hanno’s Workshop at Mossie’s B&B
In the restored 19th-century Ulusker House on the Beara Peninsula, Canadian-German couple Vanessa and Matti have been running Mossie’s B&B since 2019. The latest addition to the accommodation offering is Hanno’s Workshop, a self-catering barn with a New York-style loft (two guests; pets allowed). A new sauna has just opened beside a small pond on the grounds; www.mossies.ie.
Allow time to walk or cycle part of the Beara Way, a 206km loop that starts and finishes in Glengarriff, from where you can also take a short ferry to mystical Garnish Island. Stop for a sweet crêpe or savoury galette from La Crêperie Gourmande food truck.
The garden at the Heron Gallery & Café.
If driving along the Sheep’s Head peninsula, make a pitstop in the village of Ahakista, where local haunts include The Heron Gallery & Café, run by artist Annabel Langrish and The Tin Pub – with its lovely garden backing on to Kitchen Cove at Dunmanus Bay, full of hydrangeas in the summer.
In Kinsale, Saint Francis Provisions is a wine bar offering small plates. Owned by Barbara Nealon, it was awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand this year. The menu has a Spanish slant courtesy of head chef Rebeca Recarey Sanchez – expect Rossmore oysters with escabeche, cod and confit peppers, and Santoña anchovies on toast. Get there at opening time to nab one of the tables on the sunny terrace out front; @stfranciskinsale.
In East Cork, make haste to the new Salty Dog café and restaurant on the pier at Ballycotton. The cosy pub has live music every Saturday, and boutique guest rooms upstairs. Book one of Ballycotton Sea Adventures which offers boat trips to the local lighthouse.
Nearby, Sea Church, in a restored church, is another great restaurant. Garryvoe Beach is lovely for a walk – after a dip, try the sauna at the beach. Further afield but worth the short drive is Cush, which recently moved from Ballycotton to Midleton – this award-winning restaurant is listed in the Michelin Guide.
SEE MORE: Kitty Coles’ Food Road Trip Along Ireland’s South East Coast
FERMANAGH & DOWN
Picnic by Lough Erne, explore the Marble Arch Caves, follow the Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail, known as the “Stairway to Heaven”, or visit the National Trust’s Florence Court Estate and Gardens – Fermanagh’s Lakelands are underexplored. Self-catering turret-style lodges at Lough Erne Resort and Woodland Lodges at Killyhevlin Hotel offer the best of both worlds: full access to superb facilities, spas and restaurants, and the freedom to live like a local.
Finn Lough was way ahead of the forest bathing trend when it launched its cosy transparent bubble domes. Have dinner at its new Lasair restaurant, cooked by an all-female team.
Visit 19th-century Crom Castle, a National Trust property, in one of the most romantic spots in Co Fermanagh; you can also rent the posh West Wing, which accommodates 13.
Tackle Magho Cliff Walk, a series of stairways through a “cloud forest” to the top of Lough Navar mountain with views that stretch as far as Benbulben and across Donegal. Anglers will love Home Field & Stream and Fishing Tackle and Bait in Enniskillen for advice on fishing hotspots.
In the Ards Peninsula in Co Down, Greyabbey village is a top spot for vintage and antique hunting – pop into The Eclectic House, The Attic and The Old Courthouse.
Just outside the village, visit neo-classical Mount Stewart House and its impressive gardens.
At Strangford Lough Activity Centre, Rory Martin runs Sunrise and Full Moon kayaking experiences and e-biking tours.
Stay nearby in self-catering retreat Brent Lodge, named after the geese which fly in from Canada to winter on the shores of Strangford Lough, or Brent Cove – both sleep two – each with a wood-burning stove and private terrace for observing the incredible sights and sounds of 30,000 Brent geese on the shore.
The Dalkey of Northern Ireland, the posh enclave of Helen’s Bay is a great base from which to explore Co Down. Stay in The Studio, @thestudiohelensbay, a designer cottage five-minutes’ walk from the sandy beach and the picturesque North Down Coastal Path. It’s also next to Crawfordsburn Country Park with its hiking trails and waterfalls.
On Fridays, stroll over to Helen’s Bay Organic Farm and Garden, founded by farmer John McCormick in 1991 for organic vegetables and more.
At nearby Killinchy, visit Finlay’s Place to pick your own fresh flowers and strawberries. Jude Dellow, aka @salty_yogi_, also leads sunrise and sunset yoga on Helen’s Bay beach. Local swimming club Helen’s Baywatch @helensbaywatch meets on the beach every Sunday morning, and visitors are always welcome.
Visit Coan Coffee on the Ards Peninsula for cappucino and carrot cake. @coan_coffee
