There is a plethora of choices when it comes to spring/summer outerwear, whether you want to spice things up with a show-stopping statement coat, or finally invest in a classic, forever trench coat. Starting at the maximalist end of the coat spectrum, hop on the kaleidoscopic coat bandwagon. Berlin-based Aleksandra Viktor’s debut collection of chapan-style coats (a coat worn throughout Central Asia by both men and women) is patterned with intricate threading in a variety of colours. Sea New York’s cool quilt-like coat is folksy yet feminine. At the other end of the spectrum we have trench coats, which have been given a make-over for the new season. The beauty of the trench coat is that it combines maximum style with minimum fuss and its beige shades go with nearly everything. Think new silhouettes (one to suit every figure) but with classic details like storm flaps and buckled cuffs: at Max Mara it was beige and tailored, at Louis Vuitton it was slightly loose and cropped, while at Prada it was oversized and cut from the most beautiful waterproof cotton-gabardine. Pair your newfound coat with extremely wearable off-white or putty-coloured suede ankle boots (they finished off almost every outfit at the Isabel Marant’s SS21 show) pared-back white sneakers (look at Adidas’ Stan Smith all-white vegan trainers). 

Prada SS21

THE FIT

This season, slightly oversized silhouettes have a nonchalant appeal which always looks chic. When it comes to dramatic coats, they often hang from the shoulders and have a dropped or raglan sleeve (the latter has a narrowing effect and is universally flattering). If you are tall, most styles will suit, but make sure the length works. Bigger-busted or apple-figures should look for shapes that skim the body, creating an elongated, silhouette. Petite builds should choose slimmer-fit styles and use a belt to cinch the waist. A flattering styling trick is to show a bit of wrist, whether it be sun-kissed skin or a slim-armed top. This accentuates the volume of the coat while revealing a hint of your figure.

Marni SS21

THE DETAILS

Beautiful patterned coats make a statement as soon as you walk out the door. Wear loose (or open) to show off what lies beneath or use a tie or leather belt to cinch the waist. Depending on your mood or your personality, temper the intricate patterns with neutral accessories or go all out and choose a woven leather or tapestry-style bag, add colourful shoes or shoes with texture as well as colourful jewellery. Wear your investment buy (or vintage find) over a feminine dress, denim jeans or smart tailoring for a sharp contrast.

THE TRENCH COAT

When making a purchase, the first thing to consider is length: a longline/maxi oversized trench will look great on anyone who is tall while the just-over-the-knee length is ideal for a shorter person and great for hiding a little bit of an excess lockdown weight (try Burberry’s classic Islington trench and leave undone). Remember, a shorter hem calls for a shorter dress length. If you have warm-toned skin, look at colours like olive, honey and tan. Cool skin tones suit cooler colours off-white, certain beiges and navy. Beige does not suit everyone. Khaki trenches work really well on darker skin tones. Take this Nina Ricci version (pictured above) for instance, its soft-sheen fabric, cinched cuffs, fit-and-flare shape, and cinched cuffs make it a real investment buy. Shrug yours over a pretty blouse or top. Burberry added an unexpected extra layer, a sewn-in sleeveless denim jacket, while Preen added a detachable top jacket with black sleeves and a huge bow belt. Both kept recognisable details like the double-breasted silhouette and horn buttons to keep the overall effect sophisticated. At Hermès, the leather trench was crafted entirely by hand and required special expertise mastered only by the very best tailors. 

Dior SS21

THE PATTERNED COAT

Designers Dolce & Gabbana, Etro and Sea New York have fully embraced the cheerful homespun, heirloom-style quilted and artfully lined one-of-a-kind coats inspired by wanderlust and a love of global travel. Think glamorous yet eclectic prints with a bohemian aesthetic. Take inspiration from the Dolce & Gabanna runway and choose an ethnic, “I picked this up on my travels”–style print. Add an artsy tote and a co-ordinating headband. Check out Free People’s effortless print duster coats (namely the Cyrene coat); www.freepeople.com. A kimono coat, cut from silk or twill, will move beautifully as you walk. It’s a truly versatile piece – you can also style as a dress. Christopher Kane’s graphic approach to outerwear echoed Kane’s own lockdown paintings. At Marni, designers patched together 25 slogan-emblazoned coats from past-season outerwear collections and painted them with phrases like “Love is everywhere, no stones can withhold me” (a reference to coronavirus) and others with the word “Love”graffitied across the collars.

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