Explore these New books on cinematic fashion, contemporary designers and iconic photography …
EMBODYING PASOLINI by Oliver Saillard & Clara Tosa Pamphili, Rizzoli, €70. Reinforcing the importance of cinematic fashion, this book shows how the provocative garments of costume designer Danilo Donato were central to the success of Italian director Pier Paolo Pasolini’s iconic films.
ALAÏA AFORE ALAÏA Edited by Carla Sozzani and Olivier Saillard, Rizzoli, €82. Criticising Karl Lagerfeld and falling out with editor Anna Wintour: the late Azzedine Alaïa, often referred to as the “King of Cling”, was a controversial figure. This intimate look at his career, from humble beginnings in Tunisia to his breakthrough 1982 New York show, is a must-read for fans of his dress-to-kill aesthetic.
NEWTON, RIVIERA Matthias Harder and Guillaume de Sardes, Prestel, €42. Want to raise some eyebrows? Place this book on the coffee table – a collection of images documenting two decades of photographer Helmut Newton’s love affair with the French Riviera. Newton’s preference for statuesque, Teutonic women and his use of ring-flash photography lent a menacing mood to many of his scenarios, inspiring the debate: does he objectify women or does he invest them with superhuman power?
MOVE AND ART By Malene Birger, teNeues, €88. Unbelievably, Danish designer Malene Birger has upped sticks more than 30 times over three decades. Move and Art documents these moves and house projects from a townhouse in London, to a neoclassical villa near Lake Como and a finca with gallery and studio in Mallorca, which will be her permanent base.
SHOCKING: THE SURREAL WORLD OF ELSA SCHIAPARELLI By Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière, Thames & Hudson, €58. Couturier Elsa Schiaparelli’s smart, sophisticated, witty clothes were enhanced by collaborations with artists such as Man Ray, Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dalí, with whom she created her famous lobster dress. This is essential pre-reading if visiting the exhibition of the same name at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, until January 2022.
WHAT SHALL I WEAR? The What, Where, When, and How Much of Fashion by Claire McCardell, Abrams Image, €21. Designer Claire McCardell (1905-1958) is credited as the originator of “The American Look” popularising mix and match separates, open-back sundresses, and the trend for ballet flats. This collection of her wit and wisdom, first published in 1956, is still relevant: advice on finding your own look, shopping on a budget and building a chic and distinctive wardrobe always resonates.