From a smart hotel in a historic winery to a 19th-century farmhouse in a vineyard, these destinations combine terroir, design, food and hospitality …
VINOTHERAPY
Les Sources de Caudalie, Bordeaux, France
Irish hotelier and wine expert Bill Kelly recalls his first meeting with Daniel Cathiard and his wife Florence at a tasting of Grand Crus de Graves from their prestigious Château Smith Haut Lafitte in Bordeaux in 2010. “Florence explained how her daughter was developing a new anti-ageing range called Caudalie using active polyphenols found in grape pips. It’s been amazing to see how the Caudalie cosmetics brand has developed since that conversation.” Les Sources de Caudalie’s Vinotherapie Spa, where treatments include its famous crushed Cabernet scrub, honey and wine wrap, barrel bath, and Winemaker’s massage, is not just a spa destination but a gourmet getaway too, with its Michelin-starred La Grand’Vigne restaurant, and the more casual La Table du Lavoir. In Bordeaux city centre, Bill Kelly recommends Aux Quatre Coins du Vin, and the French bistros Le Quatrieme Mur, in the city’s Grand Théâtre. Kelly’s Resort Hotel & Spa, Rosslare also offers grape-based treatments in the Sea Spa (try the Premier Cru facial).
LAKESIDE LINGERING
Vivere Suites and Rooms, Lake Garda, Italy
Bold, crisp and sophisticated might be words applied to the wines of Italy’s Trentino region – from Trento DOC, to the native red Teroldgego, white Nosiola and Pinot Grigio. They could also be used to describe the minimalist cluster of suites and villa of Vivere set amid vineyards, an hour’s drive from the cosmopolitan cities of Trento and Verona. It would be easy to nest in these snug suites but gastronomic gems offsite include the fuss-free Trattoria Belvedere, and Ristorante Centrale, which serves the tastiest pizzas. A must-visit is Le Service trattoria which has a cantina section of over 500 wines from the region, the ideal complement to its small plates menu. With bikes available to Vivere’s guests, cycling off any excess is easy – Lake Garda is just 20 minutes away.
VIENNESE WHIRLS
Hotel Sans Souci, Vienna, Austria
Two of my favourite words on a wine list are Grüner Veltliner, which I first tried many years ago in a traditional Viennese heurige, or wine tavern, found especially in the wine-growing districts on the city’s outskirts. The word heurige doesn’t just describe the tavern itself, but also the wine from the current vintage which, in accordance with tradition, may be so-called until November 11. In Vienna, I recommend boutique gems Hotel Motto and Hotel Sans Souci. Further out in Hernals, Buschenschank Stift St Peter is one of Vienna’s most authentic heurige experiences – a rustic wine tavern in a Benedictine monastery surrounded by rows of vines. Weingut Wieselthaler in Oberlaa is a familyrun winery which draws a local crowd for wine and old-world atmosphere. It’s ideal for drinks after a day spent walking the trails of the nearby Kurpark Oberlaa. When Wine Editor Julie Dupouy attends the annual Erste Lagen tastings of prestigious Austrian wines, she stays just outside Vienna in the rustic cottages of Grafenegg, which has its own cellar, close to the fabulous Grafenegg Castle.
WELSH RAREBITS
The Llanerch Vineyard Hotel, Glamorgan, Wales
Wales has been undergoing a grape revolution recently; it now has more than 30 commercial vineyards. Fly into Cardiff and in under an hour you’ll be in the Vale of Glamorgan, a hotspot for wine growing, thanks to its rich clay soil and relatively lowfrost climate. The family-run Glyndwr Vineyard is the oldest vineyard in Wales; its wines have been served at Ryder Cups and a Nato summit. In Glamorgan, you’ll also find the rural vineyard hotel of Llanerch Vineyard, which produces awardwinning white, rosé and sparkling Cariad wines. Hotel rooms are in a 19th-century farmhouse with a contemporary wing, and two AA rosette restaurants, a stylish Tasting Lodge and rooftop bar are major attractions, as are regular Wine Escape offers. Explore cliffs and beaches at Ogmore, fossil hunt at Southerndown or take in Dyffryn Gardens, a National Trust estate with Edwardian gardens. For foodies, Bryn Williams’ Touring Club in Penarth is recommended as is Home, which has a Michelin star, and the acclaimed Hare & Hounds in Alberthin. Cheese lovers should make a beeline for Fauvette, a cheese shop and tasting bar in one.
PARADISE FOUND
Villa Dubrovnik, Croatia
“If you want to see heaven on Earth, come to Dubrovnik,” wrote George Bernard Shaw. Wine buffs may agree. The Peljesac peninsula, north of Dubrovnik, is famous for its vineyards and wineries. Those who like rich, full-bodied reds should not miss the protected Dinga micro-region, especially the Saint Hills winery, where native Plavac Mali grapes grow in extreme conditions on 45-degree slopes. When Picasso created the poster for Yugoslav film, The Battle of Neretva, he asked only for twelve bottles of wine as payment! Picasso would no doubt have approved of the posh Villa Dubrovnik which has had several facelifts since opening in 1963. The latest renovation by Brazilian architect Arthur Casas has just been unveiled. Pared-back interiors allow the seascape a starring role, especially the Terrace, perfect for watching the sunset over the Old Town and the comings and goings of superyachts. If you do leave, make haste to M’arden. Owned by wine connoisseur Ana Bitanga, the bar specialises in Croatian wines and inventive tapas dishes. Don’t leave without sampling the rose face cream made by Franciscan monks in the old pharmacy, or some contemporary jewellery inspired by the sea from Marko Farac.
CAPE CRUSADERS
Sugarbird Manor, South Africa
January is the best time to swap the bleak midwinter in Europe for summer in the southern hemisphere. Stellenbosch is famous for Bordeaux-style blends where Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah grapes reign supreme. The university town of Stellenbosch is very pretty, with whitewashed buildings and a botanical gardens. Again, Julie recommends Sugarbird Manor in the picturesque Devon Valley on the outskirts of Stellenbosch. It’s owned by intrepid American, Ginny Povall, who fell in love with the area and the wines, and bought Protea Heights farm. In addition to growing native protea flowers, Ginny established Botanica Wines, with five hectares of organic vineyards mostly planted with Bordeaux varieties with some Pinot Noir and Albariño; 45,000 bottles of wine are produced each year under Botanica’s Arboretum, Big Flower, Flowergirl and Mary Delany labels. Guests stay in the 15-room Manor guesthouse, in cottages or garden suites, all an easy stroll to the vineyards. There are three golf courses close by. Ginny’s recommended dining spots include The Table at DeMeye, Good to Gather and Vuur.
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