Journey Of Discovery: Charming Wines From Central Europe

A hidden gem for wine lovers, boasting wine regions that, while less well-known than those of France, Italy or Spain for example, offer incredible diversity and quality …

From the steep slopes of Slovenia to the fertile plains of Hungary, each country in this part of the world is rich in its own viticultural heritage, traditions, and local grape varieties.

Bordering Italy, Austria and Croatia, Slovenia benefits from a diverse range of climates and soils, allowing for the production of a wide variety of wines. The country is divided into three main wine regions: Podravje in the northeast, Posavje in the southeast, and Primorska in the west. Podravje, near the Austrian border, is the largest wine-producing region by volume, known for its crisp, fresh white wines with great mineral depth. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Furmint – locally called Šipon – are among the standout varieties. The Primorska region, stretching along the Adriatic Sea, enjoys a Mediterranean climate that fosters the production of fullerbodied reds and complex, intriguing whites from both international and indigenous grape varieties. The Vipava Valley, one of the region’s most renowned viticultural centres, produces outstanding wines, including those from the delicious Pinela and Zelen varieties.

Austria, having endured a major crisis in the 1980s due to the notorious anti-freeze scandal, has since risen from the ashes with a determination to prove its wines rank right up there among the world’s best. Today, the country excels in all styles – from dry, crisp, and mineral-driven Rieslings to structured, age-worthy Grüner Veltliner and Morillon (the local name for Chardonnay). Austria also produces refreshing rosés, spicy and mineral-driven red wines from Blaufränkisch, structured Cabernet blends, and Zweigelt, as well as exquisite sweet wines. In the southeast, near the Slovenian border, some of the finest Sauvignon Blancs can be found – less varietal-driven and more of an homage to the region’s complex terroir.

“Central Europe’s wine scene is a fascinating blend of history, tradition and innovation.”

Croatia, blessed with a Mediterranean climate, has been cultivating vines since the 4th century BC. Plavac Mali, the country’s emblematic red grape, produces rich, dark-coloured, tannic wines with flavours of red fruits and spices. Often austere in their youth, these wines age exceptionally well. Croatia also excels at dry, zesty, and elegant white wines from varieties such as Malvasia and Pošip. If you’re lucky enough to visit the island of Korcula, off the Dalmatian coast, be sure to try a local wine made from the unique and indigenous Grk variety. Grown on sandy soils near the village of Lumbarda, these wines are dry, round, and saline. Grk may be tricky to pronounce, but it’s incredibly easy to enjoy!

Hungary has gained international acclaim with the sweet wines of Tokaj, but today it is its dry wines that proudly carry the country’s flag. Various regions are worth a wine-tasting detour for their unique terroirs, which are being brilliantly highlighted by a new generation of passionate winemakers. Villány, in the south of the country, produces powerful and spicy red wines based on the Cabernet Franc variety. Eger and Szekszárd are two other regions that focus on red wines and can claim the production of “Bikavér”, also known as “Bull’s Blood”. These legendary wines are blends of Kékfrankos (Blaufränkisch), Kadarka, and other local and international grape varieties. While the Bikavér of Eger tends to be structured, tannic, and mineral, those of Szekszárd are fuller yet softer, juicier, and more approachable. Somló is another region to watch out for – one of the smallest wine regions in Hungary, it is renowned for producing white wines made from the Juhfark variety grown on volcanic soils. The wines are intense, complex, and full of personality.

Further east, between Romania and Ukraine, lies Moldova, a country with a wine history dating back over 4,000 years. Moldova enjoys an ideal climate for viticulture, as well as a great variety of soil and topography. Local grape varieties include Feteasca Neagra, which produces intense and spicy red wines, and Rara Neagra, which produces wines that tend to be more elegant. Crisp and floral white wines are made from the Feteasca Alba and Viorica grapes. Moldova is also famous for its underground cellars of Cricova and Milestii Mici, some of the largest in the world, housing some of the most impressive wine collections on earth.

Another fascinating wine country and rising star is Czechia. The two main regions are Moravia and Bohemia but Moravia is by far the largest, representing over 95 per cent of the national production. The climate there is ideal for producing crisp, aromatic wines made from Riesling, Grüner Veltliner, and Müller-Thurgau. Elegant and refreshing red wines are also produced from the Blaufränkisch and Saint-Laurent varieties.

Central Europe’s wine scene is a fascinating blend of history, tradition, and innovation. Once overshadowed by the more famous wine-producing countries, these nations are now gaining recognition for their quality-driven approach and unique terroirs. Whether you are a seasoned wine enthusiast or a novice adventurous drinker, exploring Central European wines is a journey of discovery – one that promises both character and excellence in the glass. @julie_dupouy

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