Pack light and bring your appetite, advises Sinead Harrington, who plans the perfect day in Bordeaux …
Irish entrepreneur Sinead Harrington has been living in Bordeaux for two years, where her husband is a rugby coach. She describes this charming city as filled with joy: “Every twist and turn, there’s something eye-catching to grab your attention. It’s sophisticated without being showy, and vibrant but never overwhelming. Likened to a mini Paris, it’s steeped in history with a rare magic of equal parts elegance and ease. Bursting with hidden gems beyond the well-trodden tourist trail, there are so many delightful spots to sip, savour and simply be.”
THE PERFECT WAY TO START YOUR DAY
Start your morning with coffee and buttery croissants or chocolatine from the many divine boulangeries. If you’re a connoisseur, Café Piha and Blacklist Café – directly across from Cathédrale Saint-André de Bordeaux – are must-visits. However, if you prefer a heartier feed Grainne’s Irish-owned Café Eiru serves mouth-watering breakfasts: our family favourite is pancakes with bacon or eggs with rashers, but their sausage rolls and chocolate granola go down a treat too.
An ideal way to get a feel for the city is with a walking tour. From Roman ruins to grand neoclassical buildings of the city’s golden age, a guided tour allows you to see these layers in a different light. If you prefer to explore on two wheels, bike rental is another great way to take in Bordeaux. The city is cyclist-friendly, which lets you glide through squares, side streets and along the waterfront in peace.
Wander along Rue Sainte-Catherine – Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street – and pop into French House for a mid-shop break. Le Tchanqué in the heart of Chartrons serves delicious seafood with breathtaking rooftop views, while off the tourist trail Symbiose by the quays offers a thoughtful seasonal menu with good options for vegetarians, and their cocktails are just as impressive as the food.
AFTERNOON DELIGHTS
For culture lovers, the art and museum scene is quietly impressive. The Musée des Beaux-Arts in the public gardens houses a rich collection of European art spanning the Renaissance to the 20th century, with works by Rubens, Delacroix and Matisse. Nearby, the CAPC Museum of Contemporary Art in a converted warehouse is a must for modern art enthusiasts. For an immersive hi-tech experience, Bassins des Lumières in a former submarine base offers dazzling digital art exhibitions that take your breath away. My daughters’ preferences are Muséum de Bordeaux (sciences and nature) and Cap Science where we can spend hours, which is especially helpful when the weather isn’t playing ball!
For adults only, no trip is complete without a visit to La Cité du Vin. It’s not your average wine museum as it brings the world of wine to life. The best part? The panoramic bar at the top where you can sample wines from around the world.
For those looking for an elevated wine-tasting experience, the Grand Cru Classé estate Château Fieuzal in the prestigious Pessac-Léognan appellation is run by Irishman Daragh Quinn. With curated tours and world-class wines, this is the kind of place you remember long after the last sip.
A day trip to Saint-Émilion is a must. This medieval wine village is straight out of a fairytale with cobbled streets, squares and some of the best vineyards worldwide. Many châteaux offer tastings and tours, just be sure to book ahead in peak season.
If you’re after something more alternative, Darwin Ecosystème on the Right Bank will not disappoint. Housed in a converted military barracks, it’s a an eco-conscious hub where cafés, art and a skate park blend in to one cool space.
GOLDEN HOUR
As the sun sets, head to the rooftop bar at the InterContinental – Le Grand Hôtel overlooking the Grand Théâtre, or walk down by the Miroir D’eau where you’ll be spoiled for choice for places to sit, relax and soak in the atmosphere.
EVENING OUTINGS
For a Michelin-starred evening, Le Quatrième Mur is a stunning choice. The menu is rooted in southwest French flavours, presented in a modern way.
For a buzzy evening, Mazal has Mediterranean-inspired dishes and sharing-plates for a lively dinner. Mama Dumpling is a girl gang favourite with its laidback vibe always proving to be a crowd-pleaser. For a night out, La Belle en Folie is where the party’s at. You might go for the food, but you’ll stay for the fun.
SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS
Before calling it a night, treat yourself to a canelé: Bordeaux’s signature pastry that’s marmite for some people, but still a must-try. Find them on most street corners, but a firm favourite is Cassonade near Place Fernand Lafargue where they’re handmade and often still warm from the oven. @sinead_harrington