If you are a fan of Cartier jewels and watches, you’ll want to know more about this exhibition and upcoming auction featuring jewels worn by the late Queen and Rihanna …
The first major exhibition in almost 30 years dedicated to Cartier jewels and watches opens on April 12 to November 16 in the Sainsbury Gallery of London’s V&A museum. By all accounts it will be a dazzling affair, in more ways than one.
Founded by Louis-François Cartier, his mission was to create the first globally recognised jewellery house, establishing branches in Paris, London and New York. The exhibition will feature more than 350 objects, charting the evolution of the house’s legacy of art, design and craftsmanship since the turn of the 20th century.
With an enviable client list of royalty and aristocracy, Cartier became known as “the jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers” and later broadened its appeal thanks to the devotion of leading creatives from the worlds of cinema, music and fashion.
The exhibition, curated by Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, is displayed in three main sections and will include precious jewels, historic gemstones, iconic watches and clocks from the V&A and Cartier Collection, as well as previously unseen drawings from the V&A and Cartier archives, together with works lent by the royal and private collections.
Highlights will include the Williamson Diamond brooch commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953 featuring the rare 23.6 carat pink Williamson diamond.
The Scroll Tiara commissioned in 1902 and worn to the coronation of Elizabeth II, and later by Rihanna; a rose clip brooch (1938) worn by Princess Margaret at her sister’s coronation; Grace Kelly’s engagement ring (1956), which she wore in her final film High Society (1956); an amethyst and sapphire brooch made by Cartier London (c.1933) for Jacques Cartier’s wife Nelly; and Mexican film star María Félix’s exceptional snake necklace (1968).
There will also be a collection of panther jewels, one of the House’s most instantly recognisable symbols (much loved by Wallis Simpson), including a bracelet of pavé diamonds flecked with onyx (1978).
If watches are more your thing, there is a selection of Cartier timepieces including the Crash wristwatch, designed by Cartier London (1967). The culmination of the exhibition is a spectacular display of tiaras. If planning a visit, my tip is to stay at The Kensington, where guests can book its V&A overnight experience with complimentary tickets to the exhibition, or pop into the hotel’s swish K Bar which is serving up a Hidden Gems cocktail menu, inspired by the exhibition.
May Fine Jewellery Auction at Adam’s Dublin
Claire-Laurence Mestrallet, director at Adam’s Dublin is looking forward to this retrospective exhibition, and has form when it comes to selling Cartier pieces and knowing their value. “Their selling results constantly rise at auction, which makes Cartier the number one brand for investment. We have a great selection of Cartier pieces in the upcoming May Fine Jewellery auction on May 13. For example, there is a very collectible Lapis Lazuli, turquoise and diamond scarab brooch from the 1940s inspired by the ‘Egyptomania’ of the early 20th century. A piece like this rarely comes up for auction and is of special interest because of its history, rarity, great condition and, of course, for being signed Cartier.” (The estimate is €15,000-20,000).
“Aldo Cipullo was a designer at Cartier in the 1970s, famous for creating the Love bangle, which was relaunched in 2012. The originals are collectibles, as is often the case. Similar to the Alhambra collection from Van Cleef & Arpels, collectors are looking for the first editions from the 1960s and 1970s, rather than those inspired by them. We have a love bangle signed Cartier and Aldo Cipullo in the upcoming auction with an estimate at €5,000-7,000. We also have two 1970s rings from Cartier; one set with coral and diamonds (estimated at €7,000-8,000) and the other set with coral, onyx and diamonds, also estimated at €7,000-8,000.”
“For clients looking for more recent pieces by Cartier, we have a gold necklace with diamond clasp from the Agrafe collection, and gold bangle from the Écrou collection. And for panther fans, there’s a Lakarda ring and a diamond panther pendant necklace too. For Cartier collectors and enthusiasts, I guarantee there is plenty of sparkling inspiration!” @adams.auctioneers
