Carnations are having a comeback! That’s according to Simone Rocha. Take a glimpse inside her SS25 show which was held in the Old Bailey on the opening day of London Fashion Week …
Remember that memorable scene in Sex and the City? When Berger, my least favourite of Carrie’s beaux, presented her with a bunch of stunning carnations, only to leave her the following morning via Post-It note? They spoke volumes of his lack of genuine commitment.
When Charlotte received a bunch of carnations from one of her dates she called them “filler flowers”, certainly not the main prize. Carnations have always been seen as a bit naff, a last minute purchase from petrol stations or supermarkets. But the gritty little flower is having a major glow-up, thanks to Irish designer Simone Rocha.
Her SS25 Show, held in the Old Bailey, on the opening day of London Fashion Week was inspired by the carnation, which she described in the notes as, “A sweet smelling flower that is often worn by men in their jackets at formal events.”
She also referenced the acclaimed dance Nelken (Carnations), the work of choreographers Pina Bausch and Michael Clark, performed earlier this year in London’s Sadler’s Wells theatre, where the stage was strewn with 8,000 silk carnations in various shades of pink.
Translated to the flirtatious collection, defined by its ballet-adjacent styles and various shades of pink, models wore tutu mini-dresses which resembled the flowers, as well as “Tinsel twinsets, embellished breasts” and sheer underwear as outerwear. Make-up, by the way, was by Dr Barbara Sturm and Byredo.
There were signature cut-outs and slits, severe tailoring as well as more embellished Crocs. She told Vogue she particularly loves “the collision of the pragmatic with the ornate. Once you put them on, it’s very hard to respect all other shoes.” I’m not convinced on this, but I did like this more mainstream collection – less Miss Havisham, more streamlined and wearable in many ways. The show also featured two striking, colourful images by Irish artist Genieve Figgis, which added to the sense of chaos and turmoil lurking beneath the surface.
Front row guests who attended the show included Anna Wintour, Hamish Bowles, Francesca Hayward, Ib Kamara, Jeremy O’Harris, Kelly Rutherford, Laila Gohar, Lena Dunham, Paloma Faith, Pixie Geldof, Tish Weinstock as well as Irish actors Ruth Negga and India Mullen, among others.
If you’re dashing out to buy some carnations, use this tip from lifestyle guru, Martha Stewart who advises, “A teaspoon of bleach in the water will make them last longer.”
Click into the gallery to see the guests who attended and what they wore …
Photographers: Darren Gerrish and Christian Tuckwell-Smith
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