No other city offers such an array of affordable pleasures and an extraordinary food scene, according to Irish resident Jonny Bell …
Bangkok is one of those cities people think that they understand long before they arrive. The truth is far more interesting, far more human and, in many ways, far more familiar. I’ve experienced Bangkok from three very different angles. When I first arrived, I lived with a Thai friend and their family, travelling through the capital to places like Ayutthaya and Khao Yai National Park (brilliant day trips). I saw daily life up close: shared meals, deep-rooted traditions, an easy warmth and respect that reminded me unexpectedly of home.
For the past year, I’ve been living here with my girlfriend, which has opened up another side of the city entirely, from Bangkok’s unique food scene to its daily rhythm. With the heat, scale and sheer chaos I opted for a slower, more considered version of the city.
Bangkok is undoubtedly chaotic, but it’s also welcoming. Once you understand how to approach it, the city becomes far less intimidating than its reputation suggests. A starting point for any stay is to differentiate between neighbourhoods to find a place within your budget.
Bankgkok Neighbourhoods
Central and connected to the city’s busy network, Siam is an ideal base for first-time visitors. Sitting at the crossroads of main transport lines, it allows easy access to museums and markets without spending hours in traffic. Stay at the Oriental Residence flanked by embassies and parks with apartment-style suites, great restaurants and a fourth floor Play Deck that offers skyline views. @orientalresidencebkk
A district of contrasts – calm by day, lively by night – Silom offers excellent walkability, proximity to Lumphini Park and some of the region’s best casual dining. Stay at Como Metropolitan Bangkok, a sophisticated haunt in the bar scene and shopping hub of Sukhumvit. @comometropolitanbangkok
Staying along the Chao Phraya River grants a more cinematic side of Bangkok. Early mornings are peaceful, evenings glow and river ferries replace taxis as the most civilised way to travel. For a special stay, the Mandarin Oriental is perfectly poised on the river bank and has welcomed the who’s who of VIPs. The Grand Palace and Wat Po Temple are a gentle glide upriver on one of the hotel’s private boats. For wellness devotees, the hotel spa includes a Bastien Gonzales pedicure studio. Literary travellers will enjoy the suites paying tribute to guests including Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward and Joseph Conrad. @mo_hotels
Sukhumvit is modern and eclectic. From high-end hotels and rooftop bars to hidden street-food alleys, it rewards exploration, particularly in areas like Thonglor and Ekkamai. Stay at Public House Bangkok with its 1970s and 1980s-inspired interiors, where local musicians and the fashion crowd mingle in its co-working lounge. It feels like an exclusive club without the membership fees! @publichousebkk
Leafy, relaxed and creative, Ari feels like a village within the city where independent cafés and neighbourhood restaurants make it ideal for repeat visitors or those seeking local life. The Quarter Hotel Ari by UHG is a stylish hotel beside the BTS Skytrain station and Victory Monument. Located from the 22nd to 34th floor of a skyscraper building, stays come with spectacular views. @thequarterari
Bangkok’s Food Scene
Food here is not a past-time, it’s a preoccupation. Locals even greet each other by asking, “Have you eaten yet?”. Street food is everywhere, but Yaowarat – Bangkok’s Chinatown – is unmatched and utterly intoxicating. Staying here is not for everyone, but experiencing it is essential. Try the small 103 Bed And Brews hotel on the edge of Chinatown above a hip coffee shop.
At weekends, the Train Night Market at Jodd Fairs is a highlight, offering everything from regional Thai dishes and grilled seafood to desserts and cocktails in a lively setting. That said, some of the best food is still found on street corners. Before choosing a stall, look for turnover. Busy means fresh. Classic dishes to try include Som Tam, fragrant curries, boat noodles, Khao Soi (my favourite) and mango sticky rice. Bangkok’s malls double as social spaces and are welcome escapes from the heat. Their food courts offer remarkable choice and quality, particularly at ICONSIAM, CentralWorld and Emsphere.
Bangkok Itinerary
When friends visit, I’ve developed a surprisingly gentle itinerary. We taxi (or Grab) to Wat Traimit at 8.30am, home to the world’s largest solid gold Buddha, best experienced in the morning before the crowds whilie the light feels almost ceremonial. Temples such as Wat Arun, Wat Pho and the Grand Palace are also best visited early when the atmosphere is reflective rather than performative.
From there, we drift into Yaowarat, wandering its narrow lanes before stopping at Hua Seng Hong for dim sum and Thai-Chinese classics. Sampheng Market follows – perfect for gifts, fabrics and curiosities you didn’t know you needed. When it comes to shopping, the best all-round market is Chatuchak Weekend Market, the largest of its kind in the world. For air-conditioned retail therapy, Siam is the city’s main shopping hub. Don’t miss MBK Center for bargains and souvenirs, while Siam Paragon, Siam Center and CentralWorld have high fashion and international brands under one roof.
When the noise begins to grate, head east to Song Wat Road for coffee and a slower pace – BEANS Coffee Roaster is a personal favourite – before strolling towards the river for its breeze. In the afternoon, Lumphini Park is a surprising escape where enormous monitor lizards sun themselves along the paths. Erawan Museum, immersed in a colossal three-headed elephant, offers a peaceful counterpoint to the hustle and bustle.
Before sunset, visit ICONSIAM to understand modern Bangkok. The indoor floating market and river views always set the tone for a special evening.
I usually book a river cruise along the Chao Phraya River, ideally the Saffron Cruise by Banyan Tree, which is worth reserving a few days in advance. Gliding past Wat Arun as it lights up never loses its impact, even after years here.
Bangkok nights work best in layers. Start high then work your way down. Head to Bar Sathorn for drinks, set inside a former embassy building, before hopping into a tuk-tuk towards Khao San Road. Vertigo and Moon Bar bring panoramic views of the skyline, best enjoyed at sunset. Tichuca draws a younger crowd, while Sanay Rooftop Bar near Khao San Road is ideal to unwind. Locals go to Thonglor and Ekkamai for late night bars and clubs, with amazing Japanese food in the area. Baccarat delivers glossy clubbing in Phrom Pong. It’s unapologetically Bangkok, which is exactly what you want.
Bangkok is far safer and more manageable than you’d think. The hardest part of any trip comes at the end when you leave for Suvarnabhumi Airport, wondering where the time went. My advice? Step outside your comfort zone. Take the road less travelled and let the city reveal itself. It’s spontaneous and full of surprises, and once it gets under your skin it rarely lets go.
Dining In Bangkok
Mit Ko Yuan Restaurant: 186 Dinso Rd, Sao Chingcha, Phra Nakhon, Bangkok 10200
Som Tum Khun Kan: 6 Wachiratham Sathit 23 Alley, Bang Chak, Phra Khanong, Bangkok 10260
Anakade: 663 Soi Phibun Uppatham, Samsen Nok, Huai Khwong, Bangkok 10310
Yolk (on Banthat Thong Rd): 1424 Lock 24 Soi Chula 14, Pathum Wan, Bangkok 10330
Mae Varee (famous mango sticky rice): 1 Thong Lo, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Ba hao: 8 Soi Nana, Pom Prap Sattru Phai, Bangkok 10100
KHAO (Ekkamai): 15 Ekkamai 10 Alley, Khwaeng Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Supanniga Eating Room by Khun Yai (Thong Lor): 160/11 Thong Lo, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana, Bangkok 10110
Restaurant POTONG: 422 Vanich 1 Rd, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100
Phed Mark: 300 Sukhumvit Rd, Phra Khanong, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110
