Make a booking at one of these recent openings before it’s impossible to get a table …
LA VESPA, DUBLIN
THE ARRIVAL From the team behind La Maison in Castle Market, La Vespa lands just across the street in Dublin 2, which opens up the rather appealing prospect of French for lunch and Italian for dinner, or is that just me? The room itself has the same easygoing rhythm we have come to expect from La Maison, with a dedicated wine bar, counter seating and a terrace that will be in high demand when the weather cooperates.
ON THE PLATE This is Italian cooking that knows its audience. The pasta is made in-house each day, forming the backbone of a menu that chooses comfort over complication. Expect pappardelle with duck ragu, saltimbocca alla Romana (veal wrapped in prosciutto), and fritto misto, alongside the obligatory arancini. There’s also a dedicated affogato section, which feels like a gentle reminder that dessert can sometimes be an excellent idea. @lavespadublin
MARÉE, DUBLIN
THE ARRIVAL Dublin’s Docklands may not be short on glossy openings, but Marée arrives on Grand Canal Quay with something more considered. From restaurateur Karl Whelan, the restaurant takes inspiration from classic French dining rooms, filtered through a more contemporary lens. Set inside a former miller’s lodge overlooking the water, the space balances old and new neatly, with exposed original features sitting comfortably alongside sharper modern touches.
ON THE PLATE French cooking is the anchor here, approached with confidence rather than nostalgia. Seasonal ingredients and classical technique shape the menu, while touches of tableside theatre keep things lively without tipping into gimmickry. Chefs finish certain dishes in the dining room, adding a little old-school glamour that feels surprisingly welcome again. The wine list is firmly European, with a focus on smaller organic and biodynamic producers, giving the whole experience a quietly thoughtful feel. @maree_dublin
MONGOOSE, DUBLIN
THE ARRIVAL Second acts can go one of two ways. Mongoose, from chef Keelan Higgs and his brother Aaron, the duo behind Variety Jones, sensibly opts not to repeat the formula. Open Sunday to Tuesday, it occupies the original Thomas Street site, keeping things small with just 28 seats and a noticeably more relaxed approach. It feels like a natural offshoot rather than a scaled-down version.
ON THE PLATE The menu is short and to the point, with an emphasis on keeping things tight and minimising waste. Dishes lean hearty and familiar: ox tongue with green sauce, sausage and fennel ragu with fettuccine, and a whole roast chicken designed for sharing. It’s the sort of cooking that doesn’t overthink things, but still gets the details right. @mongoose_ie
BARTON GRILL, KILDARE
THE ARRIVAL At The K Club, Barton Grill steps into what was once the estate’s formal dining space, now reworked into something slightly more relaxed. The setting still carries all the grandeur you’d expect, but the mood and menu have softened. Less formal than the previous incarnation, it’s the kind of place that works just as well after a round of golf or an energetic afternoon at the Padel Club as it does for a celebratory dinner.
ON THE PLATE The kitchen is led by executive head chef Gary O’Hanlon alongside head chef Adam Leahy, and the menu reflects that blend of experience and ease. Irish produce is front and centre, handled with a classical backbone but without feeling overly formal. There’s a sense of occasion in dishes like beef Wellington and tableside Dover sole, balanced by the comfort of Dublin Bay prawn cocktail or French onion soup. It’s a menu that knows exactly what people want in this setting, delivering it with optional fuss and fanfare. @thekclubireland
THE OYSTERCATCHER, GALWAY
THE ARRIVAL At the new Hawthorn Hotel by Galway Bay in Oranmore, The Oystercatcher is positioned as the bar, but it’s definitely worth visiting for more than just drinks with its views over the bay, warm interiors and memorable food.
ON THE PLATE Overseen by Takashi Miyazaki (who previously held a Michelin star at Ichigo Ichie in Cork), the food leans into Japanese techniques paired with Irish produce. The menu spans sushi, sashimi, donburi and soba, offering enough range to suit different moods. Alongside it, cocktails take a more considered approach with fermentation and individual in-house techniques in play, while the sake list adds depth without feeling too niche. @thehawthorn_hotel