Here’s your at-home consultation with expert facialist Megan Byrne …
We’re all at home, and there’s no access to facialists or salons. So we’re bringing the experts to you, with their advice for your best skincare at home. Megan Byrne is the chief therapist at The Institute of Dermatologists and the National Trainer for Biologique Recherche, the French brand she has worked with for six years.
1 TAKE TIME TO DOUBLE CLEANSE
It is important to double cleanse at night to remove make-up and SPF residue. Even if you are not wearing make-up, pollutants and oils build up on the skin throughout the day. In my opinion, it is better to opt for gentle, hydrating cleansers such as milks, lotions or balms. These will effectively break down oils without stripping the skin of water. Make sure to give your cleanser plenty of time to work, thoroughly massaging it into the skin for a couple of minutes before rinsing with cold or lukewarm water. If the skin feels tight or “squeaky clean’’ after washing, then your cleanser/face wash may be too drying on the skin. [Try: Biologique Recherche Lait VIP O2, SkinCeuticals Gentle Cleanser Cream, Skingredients Preprobiotic Cleanse, or the lovely light /skin regimen/ Cleansing Cream, at Arnotts.]
2 DON’T OVER-EXFOLIATE
One of the most frequent mistakes I see is clients excessively exfoliating their skin and compromising the skin barrier. For best results, opt for a gentle chemical exfoliation rather than a mechanical grain type. Grain exfoliators can give a “quick fix” but often can cause more harm than good in sensitive skin types and those with rosacea. Acid-based toners and retinols will exfoliate the skin more efficiently and evenly, while also providing long-term benefits such as balancing oil secretion, improving skin immunity or boosting collagen production. As each skin is individual, these products can be adapted to daily or weekly use. Biologique Recherche’s Lotion P50 or Revision Retinol 1.0 are client favourites. [Try: Pixi Glow Tonic, REN’s Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic, Kate Somerville Liquid ExfoliKate, at Arnotts, and Herbivore Prism Exfoliating Glow Facial).]
3 BEAT THE BREAKOUTS
When facing breakouts, it is important to know what is manageable with skincare, and when to see a dermatologist. If you are experiencing cystic or stubborn breakouts or if your spots leave marks or scarring, it is best to seek medical advice. Never pick, squeeze or pop spots as this causes deeper dermal scarring, and do not allow anybody other than a dermatologist to do extractions.
For minor hormonal breakouts, there are a few tricks that will help them heal up more quickly, reduce inflammation and reduce their occurrence over time. When possible, try to choose targeted products that can be used directly to the areas of breakouts. For example, if you experience occasional breakouts on your chin, there is no need to use a strong exfoliant wash on your entire face everyday. Zinc-based serums will boost the healing process and calm inflammation, such as Biologique Recherche’s Complexe Iribol. Masking regularly is a fantastic tool to combat breakouts. Using a balancing acid-based mask such as Masque Vivant two to three times a week can help reduce breakouts while improving skin texture.
4 SKIP THE SUGAR
Unless you have a confirmed intolerance or deficiency, then it’s best to aim for a healthy, balanced diet high in essential fatty acids, amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants to help maximise the production of collagen, and to maintain healthy skin, hair and nails. High sugar intake can contribute to inflammation in the body and skin, as well as contribute to glycation. So where possible try to reduce high-glycemic index foods.
One tip I cannot stress enough is to drink plenty of water, at least two litres a day if possible, for glowing radiant skin. Dehydration is a frequent cause of fine lines on the skin. If you would like to add something beneficial to your routine that will boost your skin health and improve your collagen production, you can opt for an anti-ageing supplement drink, such as Skinade. This highly bioavailable supplement aims to combat ageing by boosting collagen, improving hydration and giving the body all the essential micronutrients and anti-oxidants it needs. Some of my clients rave about the difference it has made to their skin, hair or nails.
5 WHILE YOU’RE OUT WALKING …
UV exposure is the number one cause of skin ageing. It is vital to stay well protected to prevent photo damage as well as protect yourself from the obvious risk of skin cancers. The best ways to protect against the sun is to wear light, long-sleeved clothes when possible, sunglasses and a peaked hat. Always opt for a physical, zinc-containing sunscreen as they will block UVA more effectively than chemical SPFs, and do not aggravate those with sensitive skin or rosacea. You should apply approximately half a teaspoon of SPF to the face and neck. My favourite physical SPFs are Elta MD Clear, Revision Truphysical and Biologique Recherche SPF50.
6 KEEP IT COOL …
In my opinion, your everyday skin enemies are: 1. Facial cleansing wipes of any kind – these tend to be high in chemicals, strip the skin of essential hydration and do not properly clean the skin, leaving dirt, pollutants and make-up residue behind. 2. UV exposure – the biggest cause of photo ageing and pigmentation. 3. Excessive heat – hot water is not essential for cleansing the face, and can exacerbate inflammation as well as contribute to loss of hydration. Opt for lukewarm or cold water, allowing your cleanser to do all of the work. 4. Perfumes/fragrances – these can act as irritants or allergens to the skin. Always apply your perfume onto your clothes, not on the skin.
7 WORK IT FROM HOME …
My all-time favourite way to boost the skin while at home are masks. I mask almost every day. Masks can be used to treat dehydration lines, plump and firm the skin, improve texture and brighten dull, tired skin. Apply either morning or night. If you don’t have the time or the patience for a wash-off mask, try an overnight mask. My favourite for working at home is Biologique Recherche’s Masque VIP 02, suitable for all skin types to breathe oxygen into the skin and brighten and hydrate the eye area. If you prefer a leave-on mask, Biologique Recherche’s Masque Creme Biofixine will slowly soak in overnight, soften and smooth wrinkles and refine pores. [Try: Fresh Rose Face Mask, Antipodes Aura Manuka Honey Mask, at www.Boots.ie, and Valmont Prime Renewing Pack, at Harvey Nichols].
… would have to be a good hand cream. We are all washing our hands thoroughly and often, so it is important to always give back to the skin. Frequent moisturising is the most important step to repair the damaged skin barrier and to act as a protective seal. A few pharmacy favourites would be Neutrogena Norwegian Hand Formula, La Roche Posay’s Cicaplast Baume and Lipikar Xerand Hand Cream, to moisturise the hands directly after handwashing and frequently during the day. Clients can also do overnight intensive moisturising treatments to rapidly repair dry and chapped skin. Apply a generous layer of a Silcock’s Base [from pharmacies] before going to bed, followed by a pair of white cotton gloves and leave overnight.
9 THE SECRET OF GOOD SKIN …
The two most important things I have learned so far about skin are: first, everyone’s skin is different. What works for your friend may not work for you. This will encompass everything from your cleanser to your make-up and SPF. So it’s important to have your skin assessed by a skincare therapist or dermatologist and build an individualised routine. The second thing I have learned is that less is definitely more. The biggest mistake clients make is having large, complicated, expensive routines. Skincare can be simple and enjoyable, and does not need to be expensive. Speak to your therapist about how you can refine your routine to be simple and effective while encompassing all of the cornerstone products of anti-ageing to produce youthful, radiant skin.
10 IF YOU’RE MISSING YOUR BOTOX OR OTHER “TWEAKMENTS” …
This is a big worry for a lot of clients who cannot make it out for treatments at the moment. My top tip for this is to introduce a retinol to your routine. This will gently exfoliate the surface of the skin for a smoother texture and appearance, while boosting collagen production to build a firmer, plumper skin. Follow this by using a weekly or nightly mask containing muscle relaxants such as Argireline to reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. Biologique Recherche’s Masque Crème Biofixine, layered over Revision’s Retinol 1.0, is a fantastic cheat between appointments.
When treatments are available again, to rejuvenate your skin and improve the signs of stress I can recommend our PRP treatments. These are Platelet-Rich Plasma treatments that are used to plump, rehydrated and firm the skin. I love this treatment for improving dark circles and tired eyes in particular.
The Institute of Dermatologists are currently providing one-to-one online video consultations during the COVID-19 pandemic using the Zoom video platform to protect the health and safety of our clients. Clients will have the opportunity to discuss their skincare concerns and goals, go through their new optimised home skincare routines in detail, and discuss any potential treatments they would like to schedule in the future. www.instituteofdermatologists.ie
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