If Irish wine drinkers are becoming ever more adventurous (we are!), how come Rioja – one of the most familiar fine wine regions in the world – is seeing its popularity here surge? Despite our small size, Ireland is now Rioja’s eighth most important export market. Figures for the year to June 2020 show that sales have increased in volume by a whopping 37 per cent. A love affair that has flourished for decades has entered a heady new phase.

The reasons lie within Rioja itself. While staying true to its traditions, Spain’s flagship quality wine region has moved with the times and become more dynamic. Up-and-coming winemakers are seizing the opportunity to create individualistic wines, often focusing on specific soils or situations, favouring the flavoursome fruit of old vines and limiting the use of oak barrels. While red wines remain centre-stage, whites and rosés are also attracting new attention – the rosés dry and strikingly fresh, the whites either young and zesty or barrel-fermented and exotically rich with an interesting backward glance to white Riojas of the past.

Running parallel to this promising vein of innovation is much-loved, traditional Rioja, produced to the highest standards by historic companies dotted all over the region that wraps itself around 120 kilometres of the river Ebro in northern Spain. Because long ageing in oak gives the red wines the mellow vanilla-and-spice notes that characterise classic Rioja, they are categorised accordingly.

Crianzas spend at least one year in oak and one year in bottle. Reservas (Ireland’s favourites, with volume sales increasing by an astonishing 46 per cent in the past year), must be at least three years old before release. That period is increased to five years for gran reservas – the most majestic Riojas, some taking their place among the world’s finest wines.

Add the classic to the contemporary and it’s clear that Rioja today produces a wonderfully diverse cornucopia of wines. For the reds, Tempranillo is by far the most important grape, with Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo adding nuances of flavour. Many white wines reveal a new appreciation of the Viura grape, with Malvasia and other varieties also playing their part. Rosés often rely on Garnacha and Tempranillo.

As the Rioja region is Spain’s gastronomic heartland, it’s no surprise that its wines harmonise with a wide range of dishes based on fish, seafood, succulent vegetables and meats as well as cheese. Many young new-wave whites, rosés and reds are brilliantly versatile, suiting lightish food from cuisines right across the globe. Oaked whites shine with rich fish dishes, pork and veal. And, as well as pairing perfectly with simply roast lamb or beef, classic red Riojas with age on their side stand up well to red-hot spices.

Besides being food-friendly, high-quality Rioja usually comes at a remarkably fair price. Remember that next time you’re wondering which wine to order in a restaurant, or what to buy in your local wine shop. Whether it’s intended to smarten up a simple Tuesday supper or add glamour to a very grand dinner, you’ll find a Rioja that is just right. Here are some to try.