A look at the ever-changing fashion world and what’s trending now …
You might never have heard of her but the career of Véronique Nichanian at Hermès, who retired last month at 71, was one of the most quietly influential tenures in modern fashion. Appointed artistic director of Hermès menswear in the late 1980s, Nichanian spent more than three decades shaping a vision of masculinity rooted in restraint, intelligence, and longevity, rather than spectacle.
Véronique Nichanian leaves Hermès after more than 30 years.
At a house synonymous with craftsmanship, she translated Hermès’ equestrian heritage into clothing that felt modern without chasing trends. While the industry increasingly rewarded provocation and rapid reinvention, she built a consistent, evolving wardrobe: supple leathers, softly structured tailoring, muted palettes, and an emphasis on how garments move and age on the body. This philosophy helped define what is now widely understood as “quiet luxury,” long before the term entered the mainstream. Under her direction, Hermès menswear became a benchmark for tastemakers and designers alike, admired for its confidence in understatement. In an industry where creative directors often rotate at speed, her longevity was exceptional, a model of fashion leadership.
Simon Porte at Jacquemus appointed his 79-year-old grandmother Liline ambassador for the label, calling her “the original icon”.
Nothing lasts forever in fashion. It’s a time of flux at many houses, as the team of buyers at Brown Thomas, led by Tracey Despard, explained at a smart event to launch the season at Brown Thomas Dublin. Tracey described the energy and excitement in Paris last autumn, where Jonathan Anderson at Dior, Matthieu Blazy at Chanel and Michael Rider at Celine all presented their debut SS26 collections: “There was a huge sense of excitement and fun, colour and energy – of new beginnings. We were thrilled to bring so much of that back in store for the season.”
Jonathan Anderson’s first womenswear collection for Dior featured Donegal tweed.
This season, we’re celebrating that most enduring of fabric as Donegal tweed has a major moment (and a special designation is sought to protect its status). We track its history and meet the Tweedy Types who wear it well, in THE GLOSS spring fashion special.
This Month We’re …
Sporting funnel-neck jackets: Pick up a high necked collar at COS or M&S.
Wearing feathers: Balenciaga, Chanel and Loewe sent pretty plumes down the runway.
Colour-blocking: Crayola shades are in. See Versace and Jil Sander for inspiration.
Analogue dating: Say goodbye to dating apps and head to the bar for an old-school meet-cute.
Lighting: Rathborne’s Dublin Tea Rose, Oud and Patchouli scented candle, inspired by Dublin’s historic gardens. Just in time for Mother’s Day.
Visiting: IMMA for “Fisherwoman, Fisherwoman” which brings together the work of painter Camille Souter and contemporary artist Alberta Whittle.
Seeing: Marcel Vidal at Kerlin Gallery, Dublin 2, from March 12-18. Oil paintings on linen reveal a sliver of subjects and fragments of photography.
Booking: Ómós – reservations go live on March 24 for the Collison brothers-backed guesthouse and restaurant by chef Cúan Greene, at Millbrook House in Abbeyleix, Co Laois.