Try Trish Deseine’s September Menu Starring Fresh and Sweet Seasonal Produce

After our decidedly un-summery summer, September’s sweet and luscious produce is here to soothe any lingering frustration. It’s time for figs, damsons, and of course, blackberries, apples and pears, but my two most loved Indian Summer players are always raspberries and tomatoes. They heralded the start of summer back in June, and cheerfully prolong it now, bright with colour, flavour and sweetness. Even if full sunshine may have been lacking as they grew, I find they both taste best at this time of year. At the market in Mortagne au Perche, abundant, late ripening raspberry crops, sold in kilo trays, dare you not to make jam. And the summer stall dedicated only to tomatoes and basil, although quieter, is still selling huge Coeur de Boeuf (Beefhearts) smaller Noire de Crimée, chilli pepper shaped Cornue des Andes and gorgeous pink-yellow pineapple varieties. I’m making the most of this easy bounty, using my Neff induction hob and oven to provide the perfect crisp contrast to its soft and juicy textures in crumbles and tart crusts.

Here’s my easy, just-happens-to-be-meat-free September menu, perfect for making sure you stay at the table to catch all the details of your friends’ summer news, and for seeing off those pesky back-to-school blues.  @trishdeseineencore  @neffhomeie

Trish’s table settings feature a Stable of Ireland linen tablecloth and napkins www.stableofireland.com

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH WHIPPED RICOTTA, LEMON, SHISO AND MINT

An assembly, rather than a full-blown recipe, but one which beautifully celebrates the colours and flavours of September. The colour and shape of shiso is lovely here, but purple basil would work just fine too.

For 6-8
10 minutes preparation

Ingredients
300g ricotta, chilled
2 tbsp olive oil
Grated zest of a lemon
Salt and pepper to taste
4–6 tomatoes of different colours and sizes, at room temperature
Mint and shiso or basil

Method
Whip the ricotta with the olive oil, add the lemon zest and a pinch of both salt and pepper to taste.
Spread the ricotta over a large plate or platter.
Slice the tomatoes and set them into the ricotta. Garnish with the herbs, salt and pepper and a little olive oil if you wish.

TOMATO CRUMBLE WITH PARMESAN AND THYME

I like to add anchovies to this dish, either tucked in around the tomatoes or cut finely and stirred through the crumble. A good mature Irish cheddar or Dunmanus cheese would work perfectly well also.

For 6-8
10 minutes preparation
30 minutes cooking

Ingredients
1 garlic clove
6-8 medium, ripe tomatoes
100g flour
80g cold unsalted butter
100g grated parmesan
1 heaped tsp thyme
Salt and pepper
Red onion

Method
Heat the oven to 190°C, 180°C Fan/Neff CircoTherm.
Rub the inside of a low gratin dish or baking dish with a peeled garlic clove.
Turn the tomatoes on their side, cut into two and set them
into the dish.
In a large bowl, mix the flour and grated parmesan together. Rub in the butter with your hands until the mixture becomes coarse and crumbly.
Sprinkle the crumble mixture over the tomatoes and bake for around 30 minutes until the tomatoes are sizzling and the crumble is nice and golden.
Remove from the oven garnish with some chopped red onion and fresh basil and serve it hot or warm.

TOMATO AND PEANUT CURRY

Vegan and full of protein; this is the perfect dish for September evenings when there’s a little nip in the air. Great also for avoiding waste and using up any overripe tomatoes. My Neff hob with the built in extractor lets this bubble away gently, while keeping the steam away from my kitchen windows. Serve with fluffy rice and warm naan.

For 6-8
10 minutes preparation
35 minutes cooking

Ingredients
4 -6 ripe tomatoes, skinned
2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp turmeric powder
1 tsp coriander powder
1/2 tsp cumin powder
2 red chillis, finely chopped (optional)
1 tbsp tomato paste
1 can chopped tomatoes
4 tbsps peanut butter
Salt and pepper
Peanuts and cherry tomatoes to garnish

Method
Skin the tomatoes by plunging them into simmering water for about 10 seconds, then make an incision with a sharp knife and peel off the skin. Chop roughly.
Heat the oil and sweat the onions in the pan for
about 10 minutes until they become soft and start to caramelise.
Add the garlic, spices and chilli, stir and cook for a
further 2-3 minutes.
Add the tomato paste and stir well again.
Pop in the freshly chopped tomatoes and soften them for a few minutes before pouring in the canned ones.
Stir well and then add 1/2 – 1 can of water, season lightly and leave the curry to simmer for 20 minutes or so with the lid half on the pan.
Check the seasoning and serve, topped with sliced cherry tomatoes and peanuts.

RASPBERRY AND PISTACHIO TART

I’m not sure if it was superstar chef pâtissier Cédric Grolet who first had the idea to turn raspberries upside down on desserts, but his creations certainly made it a trend, of which, I’m a fan. Even if I’m not at Grolet’s level of expertise, my super sensitive Neff induction hob allows me to master the delicate temperatures needed for cooking egg custard and pastry cream. Make sure to use pistachio paste NOT butter, you can find it on stuff4cakes.ie or from professional suppliers.

For 6-8
10 minutes assembly
40 minutes cooking
2-3 hours chilling

For the pistachio pastry cream
250ml fresh whole milk
350ml single cream
6 large egg yolks
150g sugar
40g cornstarch
50g pistachio paste

For the tart
1 sweet or plain Roll It shocrust pastry pack
500g-600g fresh raspberries, rinsed
Blackcurrant, redcurrant or raspberry jelly

Method
For the pistachio pastry cream
First, make the pistachio pastry cream as it will take some time to cool and set.
Heat the cream and milk together in a large pan. Do not let them boil! Remove from the heat as soon as you see the slightest bubble.
While you keep an eye on the milk and cream, beat the egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch together with electric beaters for 3-4 minutes, until the mixture has doubled in volume and turned pale.
Pour some of the hot milk and cream into the egg yolk mixture and stir until smooth.
Then pour this mixture back into the remaining milk and cream and stir until well incorporated.
Heat it over a medium heat, stirring continuously until it starts to simmer very gently.
Turn down the heat and cook for 1-2 minutes still stirring, until the cream thickens.
Take off the heat and stir through the pistachio paste, at which point the cream will turn a pleasing bright green!
Cover the surface with cling film to prevent a skin forming and leave to cool slightly before putting the pan in the fridge for two to three hours to cool the cream completely.

For the tart
Heat the oven to 190°C, 180°C Fan/Neff CircoTherm.
Unroll the pastry into a 24cm circular tart pan and press it into the sides. Line the pastry with baking parchment and weigh it down with baking beans (or rice, or any type of dried beans).
Bake for 15 minutes until the edges are light golden brown. Remove from the oven, take away the beans and parchment and bake the tart shell for a further 5 minutes or so to make sure the base is crisp.
Take it out of the oven and leave to cool completely.
To assemble, fill the tart shell with the chilled pastry cream, set the raspberries open side up into the cream and, using a pastry brush, glaze them with the jelly, loosened if you like with a little warm water.
Serve with whipped double cream.

Trish Deseine’s Neff induction hob. www.neff-home.com/ie

Photography by: @franckschmitt_photographe