In Angela Merkel’s time as German Chancellor she has watched five UK prime ministers, four French presidents, seven Italian prime ministers and four US commander-in-chiefs come and go. Merkel may not be anyone’s idea of an international style icon, but she is the undisputed Queen of Europe, now often referred to as “Mutti” (mother).

The Merkel method of leadership and the Merkel method of dressing is indivisible in purpose – zero spirit, but zero surprise. She knows the German populace react well to reliability, and so, reliability she serves. Her signature look is for three-button blazers, worn with trousers, often made by German designer Bettina Schoenbach, in a huge range of colours. Dutch graphic designer Noortje van Eekelen has created a Pantone chart of Merkel’s jackets. From black to beige, it runs to an impressive 90 shades.

Merkel’s style, like her politics, is pragmatic, the embodiment of Coco Chanel’s belief, “Modesty, such elegance.” Often forgotten, Chanel’s greatest contribution to fashion was to make clothes comfortable and elegant for working women. Merkel’s understated, dependable dress sense is the antithesis of the flashy Florida bodycon look adopted by the women of Trump’s cabinet, and it has stood the test of time admirably.

Her legacy is to have paved the way for a new type of female leader. Corinna Hoerst, senior fellow and deputy director at the German Marshall Fund in Brussels, says of Merkel: “She exudes empathy, stability and reliability. That’s unique and it has redefined, in some ways, what people are looking for in a leader, because it’s so opposed to any of the sort of male stereotypes that we had.”

In Merkel’s own words, “Always be more than you appear and never appear to be more than you are.”

Coincidentally, Merkel’s bright, loose-fitting blazers are a key trend for AW21. What’s interesting is that there’s no single cut or era that dominates. There are nipped-in jackets channelling the 1970s, oversized grey checked suits for a 1980s mood and pared-back pieces for a more refined 1990s aesthetic. Rejina Pyo, Victoria Beckham and Stella McCartney are some of the designers who have incorporated the trend, which is reflected on the high street too. Interesting to note that McCartney and Beckham decided to pair their tailored pieces with knitted roll-neck sweaters.

Weekend Max Mara, available at Arnotts, took inspiration from the uniforms traditionally worn by gamekeepers. Introducing soft virgin wool and Prince of Wales checks, these double breasted jackets can be softened when paired with relaxed trousers seen at Oska, Sarah Pacini and Max&Co. For a slow return to formality a bright blazer is a must have.

Here’s our pick of the best new blazers:

Main featured image Angela Merkel: The Unexpected 2016 film via Amazon