Go big or go home, says Aislinn Coffey …
If AW22 was the season of the floor-sweeping maxi skirt, AW23 is dominated by blazers and coats with padded power shoulders. Saint Laurent’s designer Anthony Vaccarello displayed the emerging new look in Paris back in March, showing XXL-shouldered jackets, coats and blazers paired with knee-length pencil skirts cut from mens suiting fabrics. Apparently he was inspired by Sigourney Weaver and Melanie Griffith’s costumes in the 1988 blockbuster rom-com Working Girl (which highlighted the quintessential silhouette of the decade). Power shoulders were spotted on other catwalks too. But how to wear them in real life? The trick is to think less American football player, more stealth wealth, old money-style.
Try these ideas on for size. Channel Jil Sander and Givenchy by wearing a sleek (not clingy) dress or slim-fit sweater with a power-shoulder blazer or coat. Power-shoulder tops should be belted or tucked in, as the waist must be accentuated to balance the top-heavy silhouette. Another option is to add shoulder pads under tops and blazers, one of Trinny Woodall’s tricks. “Shoulder pads add a roof to your hips,” she says. As women’s shoulders hunch forward with age, Woodall says the aim is to appear to have less of a slope, which in turn makes you look like you have better posture, what she calls “the coat hanger effect”.
Borrow from the boys: scour vintage shops like Lou’s Lot, @louslotshop, for mens blazers and coats. Follow the advice of style consultant and body-shape expert Claire Hall, who recommends Wieysdoo Store’s invisible anti-slip silicone shoulder pads from Amazon – they sit neatly on the shoulder with no need to tuck under a bra strap. Undetectable under clothing, they provide a nice statement shoulder without compromising on comfort.
GLOSS team girl crush Chloë Sevigny looks super-cool at Proenza Schouler, wearing a power-shoulder jacket with leather skirt and slouchy boots.
THE UPDATE: Blazers are the ultimate example of this trend, but everything, from coats to dresses, is getting the power shoulder treatment. Adding a belt to a piece with exaggerated shoulders will create an hourglass effect. To keep the power shoulder looking modern and not too 1980s throwback-style, wear with dressed-down pieces like denim jeans and leather trousers (skinny and wide-leg pants both work elegantly with its proportions). If you have a petite frame, leaving your jacket or coat open is recommended.
The shortcut to looking on trend this season is via a power-shouldered wool coat. We loved this emerald green version by Jil Sander.
THE JEWELLERY Finishing touches can transform your new power-shoulder look. “Lo-fi ” earrings or a statement necklace will frame your face. Green onyx and gold-vermeil earrings, Kate Young, €355; www.monicavinader.com.
At Givenchy and Jason Wu, classic mid-calf, single-breasted coats are updated with the power shoulder, this style is boxy and others are more rounded.
THE HAIR: Show off those newly found shoulders! Ballet buns and French twists are in: try a sleek, polished updo with loose ends tucked in. Or a middle-parted low ponytail. Pamela Anderson and Brigitte Bardot updos are also making a return.
Givenchy and Jason Wu rounded style power shoulder.
Dark grey coat, €329; www.arket.com.
Grey The Power Shoulder pinstripe dress, €99; at Cos, 6-8 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2.
Blue The Power Shoulder cotton shirt, €99; at Cos, 6-8 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2.
Green onyx and gold-vermeil earrings, Kate Young, €355; www.monicavinader.com.
Bauble necklace, €19.99, at H&M.
