The Iconic Dresses Making a Comeback This Party Season

And their famous fans …

Do you have a hardworking iconic dress in your arsenal? When Roland Mouret debuted his flattering, feminine “Galaxy” dress in 2005, it celebrated curves and was a staple on catwalks and in corporate boardrooms. Why? The neckline is fabulous – it created a frame, elongating the neck drawing the eye upwards to the face. The cap sleeves show just enough decolletage, while the darts around the bust and waist create an hourglass shape. Hemline length may vary from knee to midi, and it works in various colours. I loved the petrol blue iteration and its 1940s vibe (even if Carol Vorderman has done much to dampen my enthusiasm for the style in general!).

Another classic dress is the “Falconetti” created by Susie Cave aka The Vampire’s Wife, who was inspired by the early 20th-century Gibson Girl silhouettes. The Falconetti is flattering and features a slender bodice, defined waist and delicate hem falling to mid-ankle length. The silhouette is distinctive with a high, rounded neckline and enhanced shoulder line. While the fit is small (try the next size up from your usual), this is a favourite with the style set. Trinny Woodall wears hers with Spanx underwear to give a streamlined silhouette, while Catherine, the Princess of Wales posed for a portrait in the emerald metallic midi version, which she wore on a visit to Ireland in 2020.

This week, Catherine chose another iconic dress – though rather less pricey. She wore a mustard version of Karen Millen’s “Forever” dress – instantly recognisable to devotees of the brand, who also include British prime minister Liz Truss. The “Forever” features a high-notched collar, V-neck front, puffed shoulders, three-quarter length sleeves with a belted waist to provide definition. This midi-length marvel is a best-seller for the brand.

Jane Eskriett, managing director of Karen Millen, has launched an “Icon” series inspired by the early years of the brand – from the 1980s to the Noughties (when it was owned by eponymous founder, Karen Millen and her then husband, Kevin Stanford. The brand was sold to Icelandic bank Kaupthing in 2004. In 2019, the brand was purchased by the Boohoo group.) This series fuses timeless essentials modelled by various muses. The latest is Elizabeth Hurley, who has worked on an exclusive edit, which she calls, “an opportunity to show my signature style and Karen Millen’s expert craftsmanship. Style to me means owning your look. Being comfortable, not copying anybody else, mixing old with new and just being authentic. Nothing looks worse than somebody who has bought a whole ‘look’ but it’s not really them. Find a way to make it yours, whether it’s with accessories – a different belt or an old pair of shoes, just something to make it more you.” Hurley is a fan of the Forever dress and says, “It fits like a glove and you can wear it time and time again.”

Do have a look at the innovative party capsule – the Weston x Karen Millen. This is with Professor Richard Weston who creates magnified images of minerals, rock and plants which have been amplified and applied to tailored party dresses in jewel colours and adorned with iridescent sequins, organza and taffeta.

Before the party season gets underway, though, here are some pieces to add to your desk to dinner wardrobe.