New York has renewed its cachet with the style set, here’s why …
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New York is back – with a bang! Did it ever go away, you ask? Maybe not, but it’s fair to say that in recent years the colourful shades and sustainable ethos of Copenhagen, or the sprezzatura of Milan, have seen its shine as a fashion city wane somewhat. Perhaps the appeal of New York right now can be summed up in the below piece of merch – matches branded with ‘The Row & Khaite & Toteme’ – by fashion writer Jessica Graves (Graves’ Substack The Love List is a notable read). There’s a slew of brands, both American and international, gravitating towards the city right now that summarise an easy, wearable and sleek aesthetic – one that we are all craving.
Perhaps one of the most buzzworthy things about New York lately is the non-American fashion houses and brands who are flocking to show there. As a first this season, Swedish label Toteme held its collection showcase at New York Fashion Week, just two weeks ago. It seems like a natural fit: the brand’s NYFW runway debut, showing its SS25 collection, was elegant but pared back, working from a mainly black and white palette with flashes of texture and polished silver accessories. In a boon for wearability, there was even a cameo from the mother of all practical pieces – sheer black tights. We’re earmarking the calf-grazing shirt dress, below, as a future sell-out.
Images above: Toteme SS25, courtesy of Toteme.
Equally, heritage French fashion house Alaïa, helmed by Pieter Mulier, made a return to New York Fashion Week with a memorable moment showing at The Solomon R Guggenheim Museum (the brand used to show in New York back in the 1980s). While the clothes – which referenced American sportswear and key designers such as Halston and Claire McArdell – were a little more daring, on closer inspection there is a common thread. The neutral palette, the voluminous skirts, the minimal sandals, the unexpected flash of red all play into the current appetite for wearable luxury.
Image: Alaïa SS25, courtesy of Alaïa.
One of the main reasons New York is feeling so buzzed about again is due to the new gen of American brands championing the mini-luxe (that is, minimal luxury) aesthetic. Think: Khaite and The Row. When it comes to Khaite, the brand is continuing on its winning streak of sleek, softly structured pieces (see its new collection, pictured above). As for accessories, the brand’s Benny leather belt with silver studding is in the running for the most viral accessory of 2024. While its Lotus suede tote, which comes in a swoon-worthy caramel suede, is the definition of tactile autumn dressing.
What else can you buy now that chimes with a New York sense of style? High street favourite COS, pictured above, which unveiled its AW24 mainline and Atelier collections at the Brooklyn Navy Yard during NYFW, is delivering on soft tailoring and oversized, fluid silhouettes. With pieces from the mainline collection available now, look for extra long length dresses, duffle coats and quilted bags teamed with ballet flats, pointed kitten heels and leather loafers (so far, so wearable).
While, for the most part, pieces were ultra adaptable, perfect for the modern woman’s wardrobe, there were flashes of eccentricity to be found in the fluffy slippers, which contrasted nicely with the sober suiting.
Images above: COS.
New York designer Nili Lotan, which is stocked at Brown Thomas and champions the idea of ‘lived in luxury’, is also causing a stir. When we first happened upon Lotan, we admired her sleek uniform: the designer cuts a figure by wearing black bootcut jeans and a crisp black cotton shirt (very chic, very New York) on repeat. And the brand’s denim, while at an investment price point, is heavy on desirability. Denim aficionados should note the curved leg jeans as the shape of the season. What’s more, a glance at the brand’s new-in section right now reads like a wishlist of AW24 ‘It’ pieces. We spotted suede parkas, pictured above, espresso-hued blazers in rich corduroy, pussy-bow blouses and lust-worthy cashmere. Lastly, an honourable mention should go to The Row for producing the best kind of mannish, double-breasted coat (for an Irish alternative, see The Landskein) for AW24. Bold, boxy, and something you’ll wear for life. Isn’t that the zenith of modern luxury?
Image: The Row AW24, courtesy of The Row.
