A martini and a perfectly cooked steak: I’m officially in bistro mode …
I am someone who rarely cooks steak at home, and never chips. The extractor fan in overdrive, batting my tea towel at the ceiling to stop the smoke alarm beeping, and the lingering mist of meat and oil it leaves behind, are not my idea of fun. When I crave a steak, I usually want it cooked by someone else, using good, well-sourced meat. Nicely charred, pink in the middle, and served with a selection of sauces. If I want a great steak at a restaurant, here’s where I’m going: The French House, The Camberwell Arms or Ibai, in London, or Uno Mas, Kicky’s, The Butcher Grill and FX Buckley in Dublin.
When I do cook it, it has to be worth the effort, because steak looks simple to cook but it isn’t – timing, temperature, age and cut matter. I choose a thick cut – a T-bone or a rib-eye – so I can get a good char and crust without overcooking. When choosing steak at the butchers, I look for deep red meat with fine veins of intramuscular fat and a dry, smooth surface. The tenderest cuts come from the middle of the animal, where the muscles do little work – fillet, rib-eye, sirloin, T-bone or porterhouse – but there’s a great steak for every budget, including deeply flavoured cuts like bavette or hanger.
I make a béarnaise, peppercorn or herby compound butter to go with my steak. A compound butter (softened butter mixed with herbs, spices or other flavourings, chilled and sliced to melt over hot food) is a great way to get a big, delicious flavour with little effort. This month’s recipe is one I’ve been longing to write. A few months ago, I made this béarnaise-flavoured butter with pickled green peppercorns. It was the best of all three classic sauces in one. It’s herby, sharp from the vinegar, a little peppery, and creamy from the butter. This butter alone is a great recipe and can be served alongside chicken, fish, or even spread on little toasts with an anchovy for a smart canapé. @kittycoles
GREEN PEPPERCORN AND HERB BUTTER STEAK
My top tip: I recommend a meat thermometer for perfectly cooked beef every time.
Serves 2
Ingredients
800g sirloin on the bone
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tsp flaky sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
A few sprigs of thyme or rosemary
1 garlic clove, bashed
For the compound butter
250g salted butter, at room temperature
2 garlic cloves, finely grated or chopped
Small handful of parsley (about 10g), roughly chopped
Leaves from 2-3 sprigs of tarragon
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp green peppercorns, plus 2 tbsp of their brine
About 10 or so grinds of black pepper
Method
To make the compound butter
1. In a food processor, combine the butter, garlic, herbs, mustard, half the peppercorns and their brine, and blitz until smooth and evenly mixed. Stir through the remaining peppercorns and ground black pepper for texture. (You can make it by hand: finely chop the herbs, then mix everything together well with a fork.)
2. Scoop butter onto a sheet of parchment, roll it into a log and twist the ends to seal. Chill for at least 30 minutes until firm. It will keep for up to 2 weeks in the fridge or 3 months in the freezer.
For a reverse sear (best for a really thick or large piece of beef)
1. Pre-heat the oven to 120°C fan and set the steak on a wire rack over a tray. Season well with salt, pepper and a drizzle of oil, then roast for 45-60 minutes until the internal temperature reaches 48-50°C for medium-rare.
2. Rest for 10–15 minutes while you heat a heavy pan until smoking hot, then sear the steak for around 1–2 minutes per side, including the fat edge, until deeply golden and crisp. Remove from the pan and rest again on a plate or tray to catch the juices.
3. Cut a 1cm slice of the herbed butter and place over the steak while it rests, then carve and serve with extra before slicing. It will be evenly cooked, pink from edge to edge, with a perfect crust.
For a traditional sear and roast
1. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C fan. Season the steak with oil, salt and pepper, then sear in a hot ovenproof pan for 2-3 minutes per side until very well browned. Transfer to the oven and roast for 10-15 minutes (aim for 50°C internal temp for medium-rare). Rest for 10-15 minutes.
2. Cut a 1cm slice of the herbed butter and place over the steak while it rests then carve and serve with extra if you’d like. This quicker method gives a deep brown crust with a little more gradient from edge to centre – classic and just as delicious.
3. Serve with a vinegary dressed watercress salad and oven fries if you want to go all out.