The most ladylike and demure of all jewels, pearls are aspirational and playful, says Penny McCormick
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“Serene in their beauty, pearls are historically associated with the moon, water, wisdom, purity and love,” read the notes to the Armani Privé haute couture AW24 show, defined by Armani’s experimentation with pearls and pearlescent fabrics.
Several of the gowns were worn by actress Cate Blanchett at the Venice Film Festival. Other fashion houses have reimagined pearls too, applying them to shirt collars, shoes and as bag straps (at Simone Rocha). At Chanel, statement pearl chokers were layered with chunky chains, or worn as slender strings with heart-shaped pendants and the interlocking Cs logo. At Miu Miu, demure pearl necklaces peeping over coat collars contrasted with sleek tailoring.
The takeaway: time to dig out Granny’s pearl necklace for a playful refresh. Add it to a “stack” of other chains, including a T-bar necklace. Look for shorter necklaces that sit just above the collarbone for a delicate, impactful touch. The updated strand often features pearls in different shapes, colours and sizes, or on interesting ropes, as seen at Melissa Curry, whose Fleur collection is an ode to Coco Chanel. Worn with leather jackets, utilitarian jumpsuits or graphic T-shirts, they are edgy. It’s all about the contrast.
Per Givenchy’s power earrings, wear oversized and baroque styles instead of discreet pearl studs; cluster and cascading styles are also popular. Monaghan-based jeweller Annette Lappin creates pearl pieces in myriad colours from gold to dark grey and pistachio green. She advises the wearer to consider skin tone. Soft white pearls are universally flattering but cooler skin tones can rock pink or lavender hues, while warmer skin tones look great with champagne or gold pearls.
As for rings, mix and match with other gems – the Essence collection from Pandora was specifically designed for this. Oh, and you might want to raid your significant other’s jewellery box … forget men in black, men in pearls are now mainstream.
SEE MORE: This Month The Mood Is Pearled
MELISSA CURRY
Fleurs pearl necklace with black floral cluster and adjustable chain and lace, €549; www.melissacurry.com
ANNETTE LAPPIN
Gold Audrey ring with gold South Sea pearl, €1,195, at Annette Lappin Goldsmith & Fine Jewellery, 21 Glaslough Street, Co Monaghan
