A culinary wishlist around the world …
In My Foodie Weekend, we explore the rhythms and routines of Ireland’s top industry insiders. This month, Cherie Denham shares her ideal weekend ahead of her appearance at Ballymaloe Food Festival.
How do you spend quality time off? I absolutely love to go on research trips when I get the time. It doesn’t matter where – Ireland, England, Italy, France, Corfu, Morocco – I just love to wander around local markets and restaurants. I always keep a notebook and pen in my bag, and I jot down things that are interesting and delicious.
What’s your perfect Friday night? I’m always busy, so an ideal Friday night for me is low pressure. I love a Guinness or a cocktail: Olly Smith’s cocktail book is my favourite as there are some beauties in there! Autumn, winter and spring, I light the fire then make a pie or stew for dinner. In summer, if the weather allows we tend to live outside as the kitchen opens onto the patio. The firepit is lit early and we cook on that. In the afternoon, I’ll make pasta then tomato sauce with lots of basil and something simple like chicken.
What’s your ideal Saturday morning – do you prefer breakfast or brunch? A cup of Barry’s tea in bed is one of life’s pleasures and that kickstarts my weekend. I’ll have a loaf of sourdough ready to be baked. I prefer brunch as it’s more relaxed. We love shakshuka and enjoyed a fantastic one in Taghazout, Morocco, so I try to recreate that every so often. Fresh sourdough with homemade butter to mop up the sauce is such a treat. Divine!
SEE MORE: Cherie’s Glazed Ham With Cranberry And Apple Compote
Do you have any Sunday lunch traditions? It has to be a roast during the colder months, but we have so many trimmings. We have three boys, aged 18-22, who love Yorkshire pudding and pigs in blankets with every roast. Summer is a long, slow, late lunch. We always say grace before family meals when we’re together as we feel that it’s important to give thanks.
Where are your favourite foodie destinations? South Africa, Rome, Naples, Provence, Morocco, Thailand, Vietnam and all over Ireland. I love farm shops, but when I go to London to meet my best friend Celia, we go to lots of multicultural shops. It’s fascinating: the spices, meats, fish, veg. Celia is of St Lucian heritage and she teaches me a lot.
What are some of your favourite ingredients? I love dishes that start with the basics done beautifully and well. At the start of this year, I visited South Africa and loved it. The fresh roostercoek bread, green extra virgin olive oil, lemons that lift everything and the meat was fabulous. I worked for four summers in Tuscany too, and really learned to respect ingredients. I love recreating those happy moments, from fresh bread dipped in quality olive oil to a simple vegetable tart or stew with rustic herbs. Every dish is brought together by bringing back ideas and making them my own.
Any tipples? Paula McIntyre Gin with sloes and honey berries. She’s a great friend and it’s absolutely fantastic. In the summer, I love champagne with my elderflower and rose cordial.
What’s your favourite seasonal recipe? Pavlova was so popular when I was growing up. It was usually made with fresh cream and berries or tinned fruit cocktail. This almond meringue roulade is an ode to pavlova, and I’ve been making it for years. It’s marshmallow soft on the inside and crisp on the outside with a light crunch from the toasted flaked almonds. I often have leftover egg whites after making pastry and I collect them in a tub in the fridge. I think older, colder egg whites whip up better, so you get more volume and a stiffer result. I’ve always loved the tang of yoghurt and cream together as it’s not so rich. You can fill and roll the roulade 30 minutes before serving, but keep it wrapped in parchment paper and tinfoil to keep its shape. To freeze, wrap the filled roulade in baking parchment then foil and twist the ends. Defrost at room temperature for two hours.
For the meringue
4 egg whites
225 g (8 oz) caster sugar
2 teaspoons cornflour
2 teaspoons white wine vinegar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
30 g (1 oz) flaked almonds
For the yoghurt cream
200 ml (7 fl oz) double cream
4 tablespoons Greek Yoghurt
1 tablespoon icing sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla paste or extract
For the lemon curd (makes 450g/1lb)
Zest and juice of 3 large, unwaxed lemons
85 g (3 oz) butter
110 g (4 oz) granulated sugar
3 eggs, lightly beaten
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 140 fan. Line a 26 cm x 36 cm (10 x 14 inch) baking tin with baking parchment.
2. Make the meringue by whisking egg whites with a hand mixer until they form soft peaks then adding the sugar a spoonful at a time and whisking again until the meringue is thick and glossy after each addition. Add the cornflour, vinegar and vanilla extract and whisk until mixed in.
3. Spread the meringue evenly over the lined tin, scatter with the almonds and bake in the oven for 35 minutes until the almonds are golden brown and the meringue is set.
4. Place a sheet of baking parchment a little larger than the meringue tin on a flat surface. Remove the meringue from the oven and turn it out on to the parchment paper. Gently peel the baking parchment from the meringue. Lift the meringue using the paper and set on to a wire rack. Set aside to cool completely.
5. Meanwhile, make the lemon curd. Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan over a medium-low heat. Stir carefully with a wooden spoon or spatula until the sugar dissolves and the butter melts. Continue to cook for 5 minutes until the mixture comes to a gentle simmer and thickens. Be very careful not to use too high a heat as the eggs will scramble.
6. When the mixture is thick enough to cover the back of a spoon and leave a clear mark when you draw your finger through it, the curd is ready. Remove it from the heat immediately and pass through a sieve into a bowl to get rid of any bits of zest or egg. Pour into a sterilised jar.
7. Leave to cool, then refrigerate. The curd will also keep well in the freezer for up to 2 months.
8. Now make the yoghurt cream. Lightly whisk the cream, yoghurt, sugar and vanilla together in a bowl until thick but still soft.
9. Using the baking parchment, lift the meringue off the wire rack an on to a flat surface. Spread the cream over the meringue and then spread 5 tablespoons of the lemon curd on top.
10. Using the parchment paper, lift and roll the meringue into a roulade. Slide onto a serving platter and decorate with edible flowers and leaves.