A look at how Irish designers are handling Donegal tweed …
In the 1950s, Irish designer Sybil Connolly elevated traditional Donegal tweed from its origins as a utilitarian and workwear fabric, producing elegant couture garments for women. Connolly popularised Donegal tweed in the US too, her designs featured on the cover of LIFE Magazine with the headline: “Irish Invade Fashion World”. A tweed skirt suit by Connolly still hangs in The Metropolitan Museum of New York’s Costume Institute collection, its description: “Cottage Handwoven in Donegal, Ireland”.
Jennifer Slattery
While the tweed industry in Donegal is thriving, feeding designers such as Jonathan Anderson of Dior, it does not have protected status, meaning that any tweed, even that which is not woven in Donegal, can be labelled or described as “Donegal Tweed”. A concept which seems impossible as the fabric is so intrinsically rooted in its landscape – the “nepp”, or bursts of coloured fabrics spun into the yarn at the weaving stage, are inspired by the mountains, sea and heathered hills of Donegal. A movement launched by the Donegal Tweed Association, and supported by some of the biggest names in Donegal tweed – Magee Weaving, Molloy & Sons, McNutt of Donegal, Studio Donegal and Handwoven Tweed – is advocating for this designated PGI (protected geographical indicator) status. A new EU Craft and Industrial Geographical Indication (CIGI) soon to be adopted by the Irish government means the movement is one step closer to achieving PGI status, which as well as protecting the local weaving industry, could also increase much-needed tourism to the area.
The Landskein
Contemporary Irish designers are increasingly incorporating Donegal tweed into their designs and some are embracing the fabric as the core of their brands. Kindred of Ireland makes exquisite coats and boxy jackets adorned with bows for a feminine take on traditional tweed. B Corp label Aoife McNamara’s tweed is woven exclusively for her label by Magee Weaving. Anna Guerin’s The Landskein coats can each require up to four and a half metres of Donegal tweed, woven exclusively for the brand by Molloy & Sons.
Magee 1866
This season, Magee 1866 (Magee Weaving’s fashion label) has produced the Cara car coat in Donegal tweed, tapping into a trend for funnel-neck jackets, while Triona, Jack Murphy and Jennifer Slattery all have smart takes on the trend for tweed. While Donegal tweed is in safe hands with these designers, CIGI status will recognise it as an important part of Irish heritage, and help to protect it for generations to come.
