Kitty Coles takes a road trip along Ireland’s South East coast to East Cork, where she finds a culinary community that’s innovative – and inviting …
I have just returned from one of my favourite trips in the last few years. It all started by driving just 45 minutes south of Dublin to Burtown House and Gardens in Kildare, as a stopover en route to explore East Cork. I arrived and was welcomed by owner James Fennell, who had called me earlier that day to enquire about my arrival time and then proceeded to help me with my food shop, talking me through what he had growing in the gardens: “I’m in the polytunnel now and we’ve got chard, beetroots, herbs, and some asparagus, so don’t buy any of that, we’ll sort you out.”
Within half an hour of arriving, I’d been speedily shown around my wisteria-covered Stable House accommodation and the surrounding grounds, and had arranged to meet James’s 82-year-old mother, Lesley (who I nearly ran over while she was weeding the driveway) for her evening dog walk to pick some produce from the garden.
Kitty’s scones with butter, Cashel Blue cheese and lemon-dressed cucumbers.
The next day, as I took my homemade scones out of the Aga and spread them liberally with butter, Cashel Blue cheese, and a pile of lemon-dressed cucumbers (trust me, it’s good), I started to think this country life could suit me nicely. I could have happily stayed longer – forever, even – but I had plans, so I waved everyone goodbye and headed off towards the coast.
Continuing on my journey towards Cork, I made a stop in Tramore, Co Waterford to visit Seagull Bakery, then took my pastry and coffee to the beach, where I sat beside a row of shirtless men with deep mahogany tans, their bellies out, speaking in accents I couldn’t understand. With the blue skies and warm weather, I felt like I could have been somewhere in the Mediterranean – not the south coast of Ireland.
The Beach House in Tramore, where I had hoped to go for lunch, was closed (note to self: check opening times before visits), so I drove the coastal road to Dungarvan for lunch at The Moorings instead, where I sat outside and had buttery crab claws and prawns, a doorstop-sized slice of soda bread, and a glass of Guinness, with boats clinking beside me. A very good second option.
Ballyshane House and the resident Irish terriers.
I made an essential stop for ice cream (Magnum, almond) before setting off on a further hour’s drive to Ballyshane, Co Cork where I was welcomed at my next rental, a barn at Canice Sharkey’s delightful Ballyshane House, by housekeeper Anne, who showed me around my accommodation with two Irish terriers in tow. Ballyshane House is set on the cliffs overlooking Ballybranagan Beach. The barn definitely didn’t look as fancy in the pictures online as it does in real life, so I was seriously impressed. Also not pictured was the abundant vegetable garden, from which Anne encouraged me to help myself. I hate to use the phrase “hidden gem”, but if there was ever a justified use, this is it. Canice Sharkey co-owns Isaac’s restaurant in Cork, so unsurprisingly the kitchen was excellently equipped to cook the chunk of cod and samphire I’d picked up from Ballycotton Fishmongers, served with a dollop of Ballymaloe mayonnaise and spring onions, herbs, and leaves picked from the Ballyshane garden. A perfect day, finished by walking down the beach for the 10pm sunset.
The dessert trolley at Ballymaloe House.
By Friday morning, the sun was still shining, and I headed to Ballymaloe House to meet pastry chef JR Ryall, who showed me around as if he had all the time in the world, even though I knew he was midway through prepping for a big wedding that day. We walked around the sprawling and abundant grounds, while he told me intricate details about the plants they grow, handing me things to taste and smell as we walked. I didn’t hide my disappointment at not being able to experience JR’s famous dessert trolley but reassured him I’ll be back for another visit soon.
The Long Valley, Cork.
JR told me that Rory O’Connell had invited me for lunch at the cookery school, so I cancelled the plans I had (toasties and pints at The Long Valley in Cork) and headed over to the school to nervously introduce myself. Rory, Rachel Allen, and all the staff welcomed me as if I’d been there forever and ushered me into a long dining room that was filling up with food the students had made that day – homemade pasta, fish pie,fish curries, profiteroles, and big salads from the garden.
Fresh pasta drying on a clothes airer.
The lunch tables spilled out into the walled garden, all laid with gingham tablecloths and jars of roses, as if they were also hosting a wedding. Rachel Allen kindly walked gave me a tour, effortlessly recalling everyone’s first and last names as she led me through the kitchens where students were being examined on their dishes. I could soon see why people love it at Ballymaloe, it’s a charming bubble I suddenly wanted to be in. The students had come from all corners of the world, but all have a shared passion for cooking and food. Everyone had made the same big decision to put their life at home on hold and come to Ireland for twelve weeks to join in this shared experience. After lunch, before I took off, I sat in my car scrolling through the Ballymaloe Cookery School website to find a course that I could come back and do, even just for a week or two.
Tom Hayes’ supper club on Ballybranagan beach.
By the time I drove out the gates of Ballymaloe, the weather had turned, which wasn’t ideal timing as I was about to head for dinner on the beach cooked by chef Tom Hayes (who also studied at Ballymaloe). I parked at Ballybranagan car park and had a ten-minute windy walk down the beach to the location. I arrived and, of course, there was everyone I had met over the previous few days, as if I had organised to gather everyone together for one last goodbye and thank you. There was wine by Brian’s Wines in Cork city, black sole from Ballycotton Fishmongers, fresh goats’ cheese from Leitrim Hill Creamery, and vegetables from local gardens charred on the open fire. Perfect.
There’s a constant you may have noticed throughout my trip, and that’s the people. Everyone I met made me feel at home, as though I’d always been part of their community. Yes, sure, I’m chatty and will always make a friend wherever I go, but for once, I hadn’t been the one initiating it, everyone had invited me in. I can see now why East Cork has the reputation it has. @kittycoles