The new campaign images from Dior bridge art, fashion and literary history …
Jonathan Anderson’s moodboard for his forthcoming Dior debut is an interesting mix, to say the least. But then, we would expect nothing less. Dior’s trio of images previewing Anderson’s debut for the house include two Andy Warhol polaroids of Lee Radziwill (sister of Jackie O) and neo-expressionist artist Jean-Michel Basquiat, in addition to three updated Dior book totes featuring the titles Dracula, Dangerous Liaisons and Mr Dior’s autobiography, Dior by Dior.
Anderson’s eclectic interests – ranging from Constance Spry to Paul Thek sculptures and esoteric novels – have been mined for previous collections at both his own label and at Loewe. This pattern is clearly continuing. The new book totes are a design departure from Maria Grazia Chiuri’s original tote, inspired by a trip to Argentina, adorned with Dior Oblique motifs and toile du jouy prints. Now, in bright red and yellow (the choice of colours reminds me of Kodak and Shell branding), the titles reveal an interest in gothic romance and a respect for Mr Dior’s artistic journey.
Digging deeper, Stoker’s Dracula is also a nod to Anderson’s Irish roots. Dublin native Stoker wrote the novel in 1897 and the Bram Stoker Festival is an annual Halloween highlight. Dracula has been interpreted as Stoker’s take on late-Victorian fears of immigration – mostly from Eastern Europe at the time – which goes to show how history repeats itself.
Dangerous Liaisons penned by Pierre Choderlos de Laclos in 1779 was a “succès de scandale” when it was published; the author declared he wanted to write a book that “would make a new departure, which would create some stir in the world and continue to do so after I had gone from it.”
Perhaps this is Anderson’s own design mission. Written as a series of letters between two amoral characters, the novel depicts the corruption of French nobility before the French Revolution. Who can forget the 1988 film adaptation starring Glenn Close, John Malkovich and Michelle Pfeiffer? The film scored numerous Oscars, including for costume design. Can we expect extravagant 18th-century ruffles, bustiers and bow details in the upcoming AW25 collection?
That would seem slightly incongruous given the polaroids of Basquiat and Radziwell. Anderson has stated, “As I started out on this journey, I kept returning to these photographs of Basquiat and Radziwell, who are both, for me, the epitome of style.”
Basquiat started his career as a graffiti artist in the 1980s before transitioning to his instantly recognisable raw, unpolished artworks which referenced Egyptian hieroglyphics, African art and Yves Klein, among others. Regarded as a rockstar in the art world, he died at the age of 27 from an unintentional heroin overdose. Since then, he has been referenced in hip-hop lyrics (notably by Jay-Z ) and his work is highly collectible – Madonna, John McEnroe and Johnny Depp all have pieces. As a fashion icon, he has had a huge impact on streetwear, though he wore Armani suits when he painted.
A love of Armani, in fact, links Basquiat with Radziwell. She was a longtime Armani ambassador, and was Mr Armani’s director of special events. He said of her; “She is strong willed and feminine in a non-stereotypical manner. And she expresses her personal style through reducing, not adding. She stays true to herself. She’s beyond passing trends.”
As a Lee fan, it’s great to see her as a muse, though Anderson is following in the footsteps of other designers who have idolised her, notably Tory Burch, Marc Jacobs and Hamilton South.
Lee’s wide-ranging fashion credentials were intuitive and impeccable; I’d also say they were arguably more on point than her sister Jackie. She worked for Diana Vreeland at Harper’s Bazaar, and counted Giambattista Valli, Sofia Coppola and Rudolf Nureyev as some of her stylish inner circle. Of course, she was one of Truman Capote’s so-called “swans” and his date at the legendary Black and White Ball, held at the New York Plaza in November 1966. On that occasion she wore a long Mila Schon sequinned shift dress and opera coat, which is now part of the V&A Collection. I’d love see Anderson recreate this look, but he may pay tribute to Lee’s Dior dresses too. She has been photographed wearing several Marc Bohan-era Dior dresses and coats. Perhaps, Anderson will pay tribute to Bohan in his debut for Dior. Watch this space …
SEE MORE: Jonathan Anderson Takes Over As Maria Grazia Chiuri Leaves Dior
