Irish visual artist and photographer Daniel Holfeld shares his favourite things to do in Geneva, the city which inspired his new photographic exhibition at RHA Gallery, Dublin
I ventured to Switzerland to be with my partner, who works there, but the journey held a creative allure of its own. As an artist, I was drawn to the country’s rich architectural heritage, so I was eager to immerse myself in a new city and culture.
For me, inhabiting a new place is always an opportunity to observe, absorb, and let the experience shape my practice in unexpected ways. This felt less like relocation and more like a self-directed artist residency, with the city as my medium.
Geneva’s Old Town quickly became a favourite of mine, with its historic atmosphere and charming cobblestone streets. Tucked between inviting cafés and restaurants, you’ll find exceptional galleries like Gowen Contemporary, as well as landmarks such as St Peter’s Cathedral, a cornerstone of the Reformation.
From here, it’s an easy stroll to Lake Geneva (Lac Léman), the largest body of freshwater in both Switzerland and France, where you can admire the iconic Jet d’Eau (a dramatic water fountain that propels water 140m high) or explore more art at Pace Gallery, perched near the shoreline.
For refined refreshment, I recommend stopping by FRED bar at The Ritz-Carlton, which offers a sophisticated lakeside setting. Other favourite coffee stops include Café du Grutli and Café de la Presse.
If visiting in winter, I would advise you to immerse yourself in local tradition at Geneva’s Bains des Pâquis. This 1930s-era public bath and spa, located on the lake’s right bank, invites you to unwind in a sauna, brave a cold plunge, and indulge in its signature fondue. Come summer, Bains des Pâquis transforms into a vibrant swimming destination, complete with Hammam and Turkish baths.
For those with an appetite for contemporary art, venture back to the city to explore MAMCO, the Centre d’Art Contemporain Genève, the Centre de la Photographie Genève, and Wilde Gallery – each offering a unique perspective on the art scene.
Art Genève is also an exciting contemporary art fair to visit at the start of the year. Hosted at Palexpo, it brings together around 80 modern and contemporary art galleries. A must-see is also UN HQ Palais des Nations, close to Ariana Park and the Jardin Botanique, which is a living museum with more than 12,000 species of plants.
As Geneva is such an international hub, it’s really reflected in its selection of restaurants. For Lebanese food, try Les Saveurs de Liban. For Thai, Soï, Korean. For Seoul and Chinese food, Xiang Yu. Ottolenghi has also recently opened. Other favourite haunts include Le Relais de Entrecôte (Rive) for steak, De Paolo for Italian, and Na Village Restaurant for Asian specialities. More options are Restaurant de la Plage or L’Hôtel-Restaurant du Parc des Eaux-Vives, a small but iconic seven-suite mansion dating back to 1750.
I spent a lot of time in Carouge, Geneva’s bohemian heart. Designed by Italian architects two centuries ago, it’s now dubbed the city’s Greenwich Village for its artisan shops and studios. This indie haven is a maze of boutiques, Mediterranean-style homes, and lush gardens. Rue Saint-Joseph’s colourful umbrellas are a must-see, as is the lively farmers’ market on Place du Marché.
As the sun starts to set, head out onto the water for a sunset cruise aboard the Savoie. This beautiful paddle steamer, built in 1914, is the gem of the Belle Époque fleet and a beloved sight on Lake Geneva.
As for night life, Le Chat Noir has been a go-to spot for music lovers since 1985, serving up incredible live performances from emerging artists. Geneva’s open-air cinema, CinéTransat, is also worth checking out during the summer, where you can catch internationally acclaimed films right on the banks of Lake Geneva.
Geneva has a reputation for luxury, diplomacy and wealth: it was my response to this identity that ultimately shaped my new body of work. Initially, I was captivated by the grandeur of its financial institutions and NGO headquarters, but from an outsider’s perspective their bombastic architecture soon revealed itself as little more than status symbols. I became acutely aware that I didn’t want to create images that felt like polished advertisements; instead, I sought a more critical engagement with my surroundings.
Shifting my focus, I turned my lens toward the everyday architecture accessible to all: post offices, bridges, train stations. This exploration led me to urban staircases, which became a powerful metaphor for hierarchy and social mobility. Through this perspective, these unassuming structures reflect the broader dynamics of urban life, embodying a universal human pursuit: the constant movement forward. I found inspiration in Geneva’s raw, utilitarian architecture: practical, no-frills, and built to last. Here, function always comes first. The city’s buildings are smartly designed structures that reflect Swiss pragmatism. In my images, you will see a lot of concrete and steel, materials used for their strength and durability.
One material that really stood out to me was micro-perforated contra-vision vinyl. It’s tough, weather-resistant, and built for endurance … kind of like life itself. The tiny, repetitive perforations mirror the daily grind, the monotony of routine, and that feeling of being just another piece in a much bigger system. There’s something strangely poetic about it: resilient, flexible, yet always under pressure.
All of my work is inspired by what Mexican architect Luis Barragán called “emotional architecture” – that it should speak to our hearts. He often used simple yet powerful elements like light, colour, and texture to create environments that felt personal and intimate. This ideology gave me license to unite my lived experiences with the built environment and to use photography as a means to express this. I love this idea of transformation; amplifying the presence of something we walk all over into something monumental. To me, it’s an act of defiance to reclaim space otherwise overlooked. This is also the first time I experimented with printing techniques. While I love traditional sublime photo prints, for the show the UV-cured perforated vinyl channelled the inner journey I feel I have been for the last two decades of my creative career.
Need to know: “Levels” by Daniel Holfeld is on at RHA Gallery, Dublin 2 until March 23. www.rhagallery.ie @danielholfeld