My favourite escape routes in Scotland, Spain, Italy and Norway …
I have always operated on a summer-only frequency. If it were up to me, I’d forgo the winter months entirely, bar a singular week of skiing and silliness in the snow, in favour of a life lived in less layers and more saltwater swimming. My work as a film photojournalist is, by definition, a pursuit of the light; over the years, that professional necessity has evolved into a personal shorthand for finding the world’s most delicious corners to soak up my favourite season. What follows is not a list of fleeting hot spots or social media trends, instead, it is an edit of the places I return to for their specific rhythm, soul and aesthetic perfection. @lexduff
SALENTO, PUGLIA, ITALY
When I first started visiting Puglia, it was still Polignano a Mare and Monopoli that were the most frequented spots by summer visitors. But head further south to the Salento region and you’ll find yourself in a place where hospitality is built into the DNA of these alternative towns. About two hours from Bari airport, you’ll find Nardò, a town so quaint, baroque and beautiful you’d be forgiven for thinking you’d walked onto a Fellini film set.
THE VIBE: An aperitivo at Caffé Parisi in the square while you people-watch is a non-negotiable, as is the short coastal walk from Santa Maria al Bagno to Santa Caterina, ending with a dip in the Gulf of Taranto. As the home of Primitivo and Negroamaro, ensure you soak up the local viticulture – a visit to a local winery is the perfect way to spend an afternoon (see below).
WHERE TO STAY: Palazzo Tafuri, set just on the edge of Nardò’s old town. This elegant boutique hotel quietly rivals some of Italy’s most beautiful stays, but without the fanfare – think high palazzo ceilings, considered interiors and those small, thoughtful luxuries (Ortigia toiletries included) that make a place feel instantly indulgent. There’s a serene pool for afternoon dips, best followed by a perfectly made negroni in the open-air foyer as the church bells mark the hour. In the evening, stop for a puccia (a traditional local bread) at Rendezvous in Piazza Salandra before dinner, or treat yourself to a martini at Matam to watch the sunset over the sea.
INSIDER TIP: Head to local wineries Leone de Castris, Schola Sarmenti or L’Astore Masseria for your viticultural education.
ISCHIA, ITALY
If you want Italy at some of its most restorative, take the short crossing from Naples to Ischia via ferry (less than 40km). Often positioned as Capri’s more understated neighbour, this little volcanic island rewards a slower, more intuitive way of travelling. It remains, thankfully, just under the typical tourist radar.
THE ROUTINE: Days here fall into an easy, rhythmic cycle: coffee, swim, read, long lunch, repeat. There truly is something in the water here; the island boasts natural thermal springs with healing qualities that have lured travellers since antiquity. My favourite spot is Cavo Grado beach – black volcanic sand, unassuming set up, a small beach bar at the ready and stunningly clear water – it’s heavenly.
WHERE TO STAY: Stay in a local Airbnb for something grounded and authentic, or book into the iconic Mezzatorre, the 5-star luxury hotel and thermal spa set on a cliff edge overlooking the sea, if you’re in the mood to lean into the fantasy. Either way, you’ll leave feeling lighter.
DON’T MISS: You must indulge in a long lunch at Ristorante La Pace. Arrive at this “secret” spot by boat; you’ll be waved over to throw anchor and collected from the water by a waiter in a private skiff. You are then ushered into an afternoon that stretches, as all good Italian lunches should, far beyond expectation. Order the melanzane parmigiana and don’t overthink the rest – just make sure to book in advance.
INSIDER TIP: Rent a MiniMoke from the port to make beach hopping around the island easier.
LLAFRANC, COSTA BRAVA, SPAIN
Only a short hop from Barcelona, or an even shorter one from Girona, the Costa Brava is a masterclass in Meditteranean light; it’s easy to see why everyone from Elizabeth Taylor to Salvador Dalí claimed this coast as their sanctuary.
THE VIBE: This is a place for “playa playgrounds” and hidden bays. Spend your days topless on the beach (naturists will find a host of suitable secluded beaches) or walking the historically star-studded coastline between Tamariu, Sa Tuna, Palafrugell, Begur and Llafranc.
WHERE TO STAY: Isabella’s on the Llafranc waterfront is the perfect luxury beach haven – a boutique hotel that feels like a private residence. Make sure to book a sea-view room. Sitting on the little balcony with a coffee in the morning sun while the snoozy seaside town wakes up is true bliss. Designed to display unpretentious luxury, it’s the detailing in the finishes that makes this spot stand out: think “your own beach house but better”.
DON’T MISS: Cala Pedrosa, in peak summer, this little alcove has its very own taverna where the seafood is unbelievably fresh and the menu, a term used loosely, is scribbled on a small notepad by a woman who has been there as long as time itself.
INSIDER TIP: Take the coastal walk over to Margarita in Palafrugell for a tapas dinner.
NORTHERN NORWAY & THE LOFOTEN ISLANDS
Positioned above the Arctic Circle, the Lofoten Islands offer 24-hour daylight during the summer months, or the period more romantically referred to as “the midnight sun”. Often mistaken for a winter-only destination, northern Norway and the Lofoten archipelago in spring and summer are a visual feast. Here, the drama is in the landscape: jagged peaks rising directly from the sea, glassy fjords, and small fishing villages that feel improbably placed. You hike, you swim in glacial water (bracing, but worth it), and you chase viewpoints that seem to outdo one another.
WHERE TO STAY: Base yourself in Henningsvær or plan a roadtrip of the archipelago to get the most out of the region, staying at gorgeous little Norwegian-style houses along the way from Torsken to Fredvang to Heimøya.
THE VIBE: Hiking up Heston or Segla is an unforgettable way to spend a day – you’ll hike with your mouth agape at the scale of the landscape. Make your way up to the iconic rock face above Kvalvika beach and then down to the shoreline for one of the most picturesque swims of your life. It’s a place for the active soul: try the local surfing in Unstad or sample the traditional dried fish in Anitas Seafood in Sakrisøy. If you’re looking for some spa time, go to Skårungen in Ørsvågvær for a cabin stay and private spa – a sauna on the edge of an archipelago might just be the definition of peaceful holidaying.
INSIDER TIP: Head up to Heimøya in Henningsvær for brunch at Trevarefabrikken.
THE SCOTTISH HIGHLANDS, SCOTLAND
If you want a summer that trades heat for atmosphere, the Scottish Highlands offer something altogether more elemental. This is for the traveller who doesn’t need to lie on a beach to feel restored, but rather finds luxury in space, depth, and a sense of history.
WHERE TO STAY: Base yourself at Newhall Mains, a masterclass in rural chic located on the Black Isle. Despite the name, it is neither black nor an island, but a fertile peninsula historically known as Ardmeanach – the “middle height”. While the surrounding Highlands are rugged, this pocket feels almost Lowland in character; it is a rich agricultural stretch that supplies barley to the local whiskey distilleries and enjoys a remarkably mild, dry microclimate thanks to the surrounding firths.
THE VIBE: Spend your days moving through the landscape at your own pace. Visit Cromarty, a beautiful 18th-century harbour town where elegant sandstone merchant houses hint at its bustling heyday in the sail and hemp trades. Lunch on a woodfire pizza at the quaint Sutor Creek. For a change of perspective, take a flight up to Thurso with Euan Ramsay, founder of Newhall Mains, in a 1981 Beechcraft Bonanza right from the hotel’s front lawn. Golfers are spoilt in the highlands, with Royal Dornoch within easy reach, but doing very little here also feels entirely valid.
INSIDER TIP: Visit Chanonry Point near Fortrose, where you can often spot bottlenose dolphins in the Moray Firth.
