The late Kenzo Takada, the designer behind eponymous label Kenzo, who died of Covid-19 in Paris earlier this year, could arguably take credit for the winter floral trend. His trippy, gothic florals combining Japanese influences first came to prominence in the 1970s. Unintentionally, this season’s flower powered catwalks are a worthy tribute to Takada.

It seems as if the winter floral is just what we need right now: it’s instantly glasual – combining glamour and casual elegance. On the catwalk, exquisitely embroidered floral cardies were part of Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia’s Oscar De La Renta “Party” collection (follow @loubrennandesign for tips on how to upcycle an old knit with pretty needlepoint). At Prada, nipped-in waists and colour pops combined with big blowsy flower prints (make your own using fabric from Texture, Monkstown), while Dries Van Noten’s nostalgic blooms and floral suits in luxe tones of purple and green velvet are top of my wishlist. I’m wondering if appliquéd flower patches will create the same impression on an old velvet coat? Erdem Moralioglu, of course, has been making florals look chic for most of his career, as has Irish designer Richard Quinn, aka the Monet of fashion. His cheerful daisy prints were part of Perry Ogden’s evocative film for Brown Thomas’s AW20 collection.

Dolce and Gabbana AW20 photographed by Jason Lloyd Evans

As Kenzo so rightly said, “Fashion is like eating. You shoudn’t stick with the same menu.” In this spirit, let’s swap quotidian black for a dark romantic floral – a grown-up version of the florals-for-spring cliché. Essential Antwerp’s houndstooth-floral mashup “Wurich” midi, Rixo’s “Kristen” “midaxi” in hibiscus, or Justine Tabak’s “Woodstock” dress are all what I call “FFFs” – flexible floral frocks. The bonus: they don’t look like curtains either.

Irish designers including Caroline Kilkenny, Monica Walsh (of Cobbler’s Lane), Fiona Heaney (of Fee G) and Carol McHugh (of Joe Noe) are also making fabulous versions. Style with trainers or boots (swap white for snakeskin), wear with a leather bomber jacket, a corduroy or velvet blazer, and layer over a skinny-rib polo-neck sweater to winterise the floral dress or add lace tights and a chunky wool cardigan. Don’t forget a black cherry nail varnish and a spritz of Chanel Coco Noir – a dark but luminous scent with tonka bean, sandalwood, patchouli and vanilla made brilliant with bright citrus and a heart of rose and jasmine. The rule of thumb for wearing a floral dress is to allow the dress the spotlight it deserves, ditching the distracting accessories.

Main featured image: Floral coat, Dries Van Noten, €1,900, at Brown Thomas