Celebrating 13 years in design, Simone Rocha’s AW23 collection, which debuted at London Fashion Week was an ode to autumn, especially the Irish harvest festival of Lughnasadh, with its rituals and folklore.

Held in Westminster’s vast Methodist Church, the catwalk was dominated by a huge organ and a live folk band. Those watching, many dressed head-to-toe in Rocha’s signature grown-up yet girlish designs, included Irish actress India Mullen, Pixie Geldof, Francesca Hayward and Kesewa Aboah.

On the catwalk, Ella Emhoff, stepdaughter of US Vice President Kamala Harris, joined veteran models Karen Elson and Lily Cole.

As for the collection, it’s not the sort of cosy wardrobe we associate with autumnal days, rather a romanticised and highly symbolic version. Billowing skirts were a nod to the bountiful nature of the season, while Rocha’s colour palette ran the gamut of inky blues (a nod to the sea), blacks and pink tones interspersed with golden lamé skirt suits (to represent the sun) and puff-sleeve party dresses with raffia (to represent the harvest).

Signature Rocha tropes were there too – the huge pearls, organza balloon sleeves, a lot of lace, cloque coats, sheer “naked” dresses and panels, gothic biker looks, as well as platform Mary-Janes. New details included sheer knee socks decorated with crystal Rocha crests, red ballet slippers (straight out of Oz), sailor suits made entirely of lace and crochet collar coats incorporated into her menswear collection.

Before the show Rocha explained: “I’ve always been interested in contrast – the contrast of fragility and strength or masculinity and femininity. I wanted to explore masculinity itself as an identity. And the sensitivity that maybe I could bring to that, by really exploring this idea of the relationship between the men’s collection and the women.” To find out more visit www.simonerocha.com. 

PMcC

Click into the gallery below to see all the guests who attended.

Photographer: Darren Gerrish.

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