Honouring the beloved designer’s legacy …
“For decades,Valentino reigned the undisputed emperor of elegance, shaping the fashion world with clothes of extraordinary beauty that were timeless, ageless, and exquisitely crafted. His vision defined glamour for generations,” says designer Louise Kennedy of Valentino Garavani, who died in Rome on January 19, aged 93.
Valentino dominated Italian haute couture for almost half a century, dressing the world’s most glamorous women. From Elizabeth Taylor to Audrey Hepburn and Diana, Princess of Wales, his overriding desire was to make women beautiful, something he achieved through exacting perfectionism. Louise Kennedy witnessed this first-hand, recalling:
“It was truly a pinch-me moment to be invited into his atelier in Paris at Place Vendôme, an exceptional privilege made possible thanks to my wonderful friend Jeanne Beker, who held the exclusive preview that season for Canadian Fashion TV. To witness his revered vendeuses fitting the couture collection ahead of the show, to see each garment meticulously hand-stitched directly onto the supermodels was utterly awe-inspiring. Watching Valentino himself critique every look, refining and signing off on even the smallest detail was a masterclass in true couture. Without question, it remains one of the most extraordinary fashion moments of my life.”
For Kerry-based designer Don O’Neill the colour red will always be associated with Valentino – now an iconic Pantone shade and also the name of his diffusion line, RED (standing for Romantic, Eccentric, Dress). Valentino’s covetable strapless red dress first made its appearance in SS1959 in a design called Fiesta – worn by Jennifer Aniston to the premiere of Along Came Polly. It’s said to have been inspired by a night at the opera – Valentino was mesmerised by all of the actors wearing red for a production of Carmen. Since his exit from the house, successive designers including Alessandra Facchinetti, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli, then Pierpaolo Piccioli solo, have included red in their collections. Let’s hope Alessandro Michele continues this homage.
O’Neill remembers Valentino’s fashion shows of epic proportions, and also the countless exhibitions of his works wrought in chiffon, feathers, taffeta, embroidery and duchesse satins. “One of my fondest memories is seeing the 30th anniversary celebration of Valentino in 1991 at the Museo Capitolini in Rome – one of the very first giant fashion exhibitions with his gowns displayed on specially built platforms, lit with dramatic lights, each room given over to a different theme. It was all so enchanting. I was 25 at the time. I actually went to Maison Valentino and dropped off my CV at the front gate. Sadly, the security guard didn’t speak English … but I tried!”
Fashion designer Laura Jayne Halton also credits Valentino for her career. She recalls a Friday evening in 2009 in Soho, New York City. “A friend brought me to a special screening of the autobiographical film Valentino, The Last Emperor where a Q&A was hosted by the director Matt Tyrnauer and the late, great Andre Leon Talley. I found myself rendered speechless as the designer’s process played out on screen, the particular placement of fabric to create the perfect drape, how he watched the movement of the dresses as the models walked during their fittings, his absolute dedication to beauty and the lines of the female form.”
For the past twenty years, Laura Jayne has attended exhibitions of her muse whenever possible. Most recently, she caught the “Orizzonti Rosso” (Horizons Red) at the PM23 cultural space in Rome, on Piazza Mignanelli. She has a special memory at “Valentino – Master of Couture” in London’s Somerset House, seeing the iconic black and white gown Julia Roberts wore to the Oscars in 2001.
We expect many vintage Valentino at this year’s Academy Awards in March. It would be a wise choice. No one did red carpet glamour like him – his dresses have been worn by friends such as Scarlett Johansson, Anne Hathaway, Sophia Loren and Sharon Stone among others.
For me, he’ll always be synonymous with Jackie Kennedy, his unofficial muse and ambassador. Her patronage did much to propel his career, which he called the “Valentino Boom”, especially when she wore one of his dresses when she got married to Greek tycoon Aristotle Onassis.
Jackie O is not the only high-profile bride he dressed. I especially admire the exquisite gowns worn by Princess Marie Chantal of Greece, Princess Madeleine of Sweden and Queen Maxima. Other star brides he dressed included Elizabeth Taylor for her 1991 wedding to Larry Fortensky, Nicky Hilton, Gwyneth Paltrow to Brad Falchuk, and most recently (and controversially) Nicola Peltz to Brooklyn Beckham in 2022. Nicola chose a square-necked gown with elbow-length lace gloves and a detailed veil, crafted in collaboration with Pierpaolo Piccioli.
For his legions of fans, he leaves an unparelleled legacy. A must-visit is the new “Venus Exhibition” at PM23, showcasing art by Joana Vasconcelos alongside Valentino couture. The SS26 collection will be unveiled in Rome in March.
At his funeral, expect millions of red roses, his beloved pugs and “VAVA’s” friends vying for a front row seat.
Images from Valentino. A Grand Italian Epic, Taschen, an exquisite monograph tracing Valentino’s career.
