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Down To Earth: Get Grounded With Summer’s Earthy Scents

By Sarah Halliwell

Summer’s scents come straight from the soil …

At this time of year most of us reach for sun-warmed floral and fruit bouquets – perfumes of pink blossoms, ripe cherries and peaches – or else beachy blends of coconut, caramel and vanilla. Remember last year’s Raspberry Ripple, a paean to gelato that delivered a nostalgic sugar hit? This year, we’re digging deeper, seeking more earthly pleasures. As we look to steady ourselves in rocky times, there’s a focus on grounding scents that bring us down to earth. Just as skincare is concentrating on naturally beautiful ingredients – and even manicures are now about a fuss-free, plain and healthy finish – so perfumers are capturing the great outdoors. Plain, minimalist bottles reflect a new clarity.

Dandelion eau de parfum PERFUMER H

Dandelion eau de parfum, PERFUMER H, €165.

For a breath of fresh air, in terms of approach as well as smell, independent brand Perfumer H by Lyn Harris distils things down to their essentials, with a cool simplicity. Harris’ earth and air approach feels both modern and nostalgic, with atmospheric bestsellers such as Rain, Rhubarb, Moss and Dandelion.

Metal Lavender eau de parfum, MATIERE PREMIERE

Metal Lavender eau de parfum, MATIERE PREMIERE, €170.

We have a soft spot for Matiere Premiere (“raw material”), and perfumer Aurélien Guichard’s new Metal Lavender puts a modern twist on lavender, the most traditional of plants. Tom Ford’s Lavender Extreme did a take back in 2019, going big on resin and woods. Though we tend to associate lavender with sleep sprays and bath oil, Metal Lavender is far from sleepy. It has a distinctive signature (I instantly recognised Guichard’s Vanilla Powder in a crowd last week, a measure of how striking it is). What makes Metal Lavender stand out is the contrast: there’s an exclusive lavandin oil grown in Guichard’s own fields (he describes it as vibrant and metallic), together with a softer, more floral organic maillette lavender absolute, sourced in Haute-Provence. Both of these are enveloped by musks and cashmeran, resulting in an earthy and luminous perfume.

Patchouli Mania eau de parfum, ESSENTIAL PARFUMS

Patchouli Mania eau de parfum, ESSENTIAL PARFUMS, €94.

Patchouli is arguably one of the “earthiest” ingredients, lending a musky groundedness to more flighty, radiant top notes. For something long-lasting and luxurious, Ormonde Jayne’s Patchouli d’Atlas (from €90) is a smooth beauty. Try also Essential Parfums’ Patchouli Mania (€98). Carmen by Cire Trudon is a luxurious take on oak wood, leather, patchouli and moss.

Carmen eau de parfum, TRUDON

Carmen eau de parfum, TRUDON, €241.50.

Carmen by Cire Trudon is a luxurious take on oak wood, leather, patchouli and moss.

le labo

Eucalyptus 20, LE LABO, €209.

I also keep returning to Le Labo’s Eucalyptus for its green, earthy aromatics, Chanel Les Exclusif Sycomore, exquisitely woody and smoky with cypress, and Frederic Malle’s transportive Contre-Jour, which captures the unique sun-warmed, dusty, slightly spicy smell of the Mediterranean Immortelle plant.

Veggies collection colognes, JO MALONE LONDON

Veggies collection colognes, JO MALONE LONDON, €68 each.

Jo Malone London has headed to the allotment with the limited-edition Veggies collection. It’s a typically fun and eye-catching concept. Of course these don’t really smell of carrots, pumpkin and beetroot – they’re very gentle and breezy – but if they remind you to eat your five a day, it’s all good. With all these to tempt us, we’re going to ground …

Molecule 01+Clary Sage, ESCENTRIC MOLECULES

Molecule 01+Clary Sage, ESCENTRIC MOLECULES, €150.

SEE MORE: Scents And Body Care Inspired By Greek Myths

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