More is more when it comes to these scents …
Are you a minimalist or maximalist when it comes to scent? Minimalists, who wear something quietly alluring, making other people lean in, have plenty to choose from right now, from Escentric Molecules’ subtle beauties to Hermes’ Musc Pallida, a cloud of musks and iris. Maximalists, meanwhile, can embrace big-hitters such as Electimuss and Ajmal at Cork’s Republic of Oud – and these UK-based, French-made perfumes, Fragrance du Bois, a brand that’s extrovert in every way. The line launched here in Ireland last September.
At the launch of their latest scent, Lucius Maximus, at Brown Thomas in Dublin last week, the flowers and cocktails mirrored the ingredients, from cherry to lavender. Creative director Johnnie Swarbrick spoke about the packaging, which is designed to be as attention-grabbing as possible, expressing the brand’s focus on projection and longevity. Think jewel-studded bottles and plush boxes: the first female-targeted perfume, Sirene, for example, comes in a plush pink box with flamboyant bright red interior. There’s a hair mist version of Sirene too (€115), a lovely way to wear the bright cherry, oud and incense.
An intriguing aspect of the launch was hearing from Dave Steele, known as The Blind Poet, who was working as a singer in Manchester until he was diagnosed in 2014 with retinitis pigmentosa (RP), a hereditary degenerative eye condition that causes progressive vision loss. His story, captured in the BBC documentary, The Film I’ll Never See, is inspiring: as his sight disappears, he explains, Steele has found his voice, through public speaking and poetry. Losing one sense enhances the other senses, and Steele talked about how important scent has become for him – as a suit of armour, giving him confidence, capturing memories and, most poignantly, as a way of knowing his wife is home. Scent can be something familiar and comforting, and change the way we feel. Close your eyes to smell a scent and you focus more intensely on the different elements of it, undistracted. It’s a fascinating and heartfelt perspective.
A range of different perfumers are involved with Fragrance Du Bois, with Spanish perfumer Jordi Fernández behind Lucius, launched last year, and new Lucius Maximus. Fernández is a big name in scent right now: he recently did Havana Gold for the Dries Van Noten perfume collection, and Ambre Latte by Essential Parfums (€94), as well as Ex Nihilo scents, also at Brown Thomas. Lucius Maximus is instantly compelling, with an immediate addictive quality. You’re not sure why, until you realise that there’s a rich shot of coffee warming the bitter orange and bergamot, with gorgeous rich vanilla and delicious tonka bean humming beneath.
So, Fragrance du Bois. This collection is not about subtlety, or sustainability – it’s the polar opposite of minimalist brands dedicated to recyclable bottles or refills. It’s showy, a bit bling, certainly exhibitionist. This is perfume turned up to full volume or, as they describe it, “beast mode”. But if you’re going to spend €320 and upwards on a perfume, you probably want people to notice it. And there is no ignoring these scents. Bring out your inner extrovert this summer …
