A three-stop tour of mainland Greece to add to your bucket list …
Remember the Greek islands in the ’80s? No? Well, neither do I, except for the vaguest haze of post-leaving cert “fun” – stifling heat, stray cats, spanakopita and dreadful hangovers. I think I vowed to never visit again.
That was until I reached middle age when the idea of grilled fish, sparkling seas and low-key (but gorgeously comfortable) hotels without a hint of boom-boom nightlife becomes very appealing. I’m now firmly committed to the idea of staying on the mainland, which has so much to offer – away from any hint of bling. We decided to go in May, which I recommend. It’s just before the maddening crowds arrive while the days are bright and sunny, with cool nights. My partner had his bike shipped down, but whether you’re travelling by car or motorbike the roads and scenery make for a brilliant trip. We made it a week-long road trip: one night in Nafplio, three nights in Kyrimai and Dexamanes, followed by a leisurely three-hour drive back to Athens to fly home.
There’s also something wonderful about not having to get endless ferries, avail of direct flights (with choice of two carriers) and the option to go in May or even October when the seas are still warm, and everyone has buggered off back to school. Greece is also wonderful to drive around by car or motorbike. The roads are good and the drivers aren’t sociopaths.
Napflio
We flew into Athens and hopped on the motorbike to go straight to Nafplio, less than two hours from Athens’ airport (number four on the map below). The route we drove mirrored the hot pink line on the map, so first stop was Opora Country Living. The website is gorgeous and it appears in so many lovely travel guides, which can be a mixed blessing. However, like most things on Instagram it was far more down-to-earth than its online presence would suggest, and is the perfect blend of not eye-wateringly-pricey (small room for about €100 a night) and low-key comfort.
The website isn’t super clear about whether you can eat there or not, so we anticipated getting a taxi to nearby Nafplio, but after a tour around the olive trees we were able to confirm that there was a menu available for dinner, some nice wine and the option to go to their tiny bar area for coffee, Aperol spritz or gin and tonic after a stroll and jump into the tiny, stone swimming pool. Heaven.
There are lots of nooks and crannies to potter, read and write, and spots to enjoy supper under the trees. This is a great place to stop, but I think a night or two is plenty. They are not brilliant at responding to email queries, but the booking process is straightforward; they are genuinely hospitable and the food is lovely, albeit homely. Breakfast is served outside your room at a time you agree on the night before. @oporacountryliving
Kyrimai
The next stop was at the southern tip of the mainland (number two on the map), deep in Mani territory and probably one of my favourite places to go in Europe. The landscape is mountainous, so once you get to the coast there’s the most stunning views on either side. One of the things you notice most about travelling to this region is the distinct lack of fast-food joints – not a golden arch in sight. Expect lots of small bakeries and places to get coffee, but none of the westernised franchise rubbish so prominent in other parts of Europe. The bakeries that are attached to most service stations (Grigoris and Veneti) are mainly home-grown chains where the quality is apparent. Try a spanakopita or kaseropita, made with kaseri cheese from Mytilene.
If you ever watched the The Trip to Greece with Rob Brydon and Steve Coogan, you may remember one particularly beautiful lunchtime spot where they seemed to be just inches away from spectacular water lapping on the other side of the table. The restaurant and hotel featured is Pirgos Mavromichali in Limeni, and would probably be worth checking out, but we stayed about an hour away in Cape Tainaron where the Ionian Sea meets the Aegean in a charming hotel, also positioned just inches from the sea, where you sleep listening to the sounds of waves sloshing against the rocks each night.
The Kyrimai Hotel was wonderful (rooms off-season are around €200-€300 per night, which drops to €160 in October for 2026 rates), although it’s well worth splashing out a bit more to get a sea view. Avoid the rooms with mezzanine bedrooms unless you’re happy going up and down steep stairs to bed. The food was great – breakfast was an absolute feast – and although you have to swim off the rocks, there are ladders and once you’re in … well, what a stunning bay to swim around. It’s the ideal base to explore some beautiful towns along the coast, especially the cute village of Kardamyli with lots of boutique art and design shops, plus places to eat and drink. One special restaurant is Elies, which also has rooms to rent. The food and setting are fantastic, directly opposite a beach. Spending a few hours here and then bobbing across the road to eat delicious Greek food under a canopy of trees and flowers while sipping a glass of rosé, is bliss.
The only negative thing you could say about this part of Greece is that most of the beaches are pebbly, so bring or purchase some booties or similar footwear. @kyrimai
Dexamenes
The final stop was up the west coast to number three on the map to Dexamenes Seaside Hotel, which was featured in the Michelin Guide and the staff in Kyrimai also vouched for it. When you look at the pictures, it looks like it could be something out of a Hollywood disaster movie – an abandoned wine factory on a beach in Greece. We were a bit nervous, but could not have been more wowed when we got there. The rooms are stunningly simple yet luxurious in a way that fully supports their sustainability goals. The setting is truly magnificent. The only downside is that the beach is a little grim. This side of Greece seems a little abandoned and although the beach was fine outside the hotel, it all felt a bit forgotten. But the food, staff, setting and incredible build makes this worth a detour. Again, in off-season rooms are around €200-250, including breakfast in one of their superior rooms.
I would happily do the route when the general ease of travel conspires in a way to make it the most magical of road trips. Greece, you really are the word. @dominikemp
