Bubbles from Italy, Spain or France bring sparkle to the table, with fruity whites and full-bodied reds for the main event …
Today’s Irish Christmas is a symphony between tradition and distant influences, reflecting an island open to the world. And with 7.5 per cent of its people hailing from other European nations, it feels natural to discover how our neighbours, through centuries-old traditions, weave their own unique magic into the festive season.
December markets in France are perfumed with citrus peel and cinnamon, and mulled wine warms the hands of bustling shoppers. Christmas Eve dinner is the highlight, when tables take on their most festive appearance: champagne, oysters, roasted capon and the iconic ‘bûche de Noël’, filled with buttercream. In Provence, a centuries-old custom prolongs the meal with the ritual of the ‘treize desserts’ – 13 sweet offerings symbolising abundance. Dried fruits, nougat, dates and the orange-blossom fougasse all appear, accompanied by fortified wines such as Muscat de Beaumede-Venise, Rivesalte or Banyuls, opened to complement this joyful profusion of flavours.
Raising a glass – whether filled with wine or steaming “glögg” – is a universal gesture that celebrates both cultural diversity and human connection.
Further North, the Dutch’s festive season is welcomed with ‘Sinterklaas’, a traditional holiday inspired by Saint Nicholas of Myra, a fourth-century bishop from Turkey. Traditional treats such as ‘pepernoten’, ‘taaitaai’ and chocolate letters are enjoyed, while Christmas day sees tables laden with pork roast, soup, poached pears and ice cream cake. On Tweede Kerstdag (December 26) the celebrations continue with ‘gourmetten’: meats and vegetables grilled at the centre of the table in individual pans.
Hungary often begins its Christmas dinner with pan-fried foie gras, paired with a small glass of liquid gold – Tokaji Aszú. Then comes “halászlé”, a fiery fisherman’s soup of carp and bream laced with paprika and chilli, followed by “töltött káposzta”: cabbage leaves stuffed with Mangalica pork, a prized local meat often likened to Japanese Wagyu for its marbling and depth of flavour. To crown the feast, ‘kacsasült’ – roast duck served on a bed of red cabbage braised in red wine with prunes and nutmeg – brings warmth and spice. Hungary offers no shortage of treasures from its vineyards, with wines such as elegant dry Furmint, juicy Kadarka and generous Kékfrankos.
Gathered around the family table, wine becomes an invisible thread linking people together …
Where Hungary celebrates through richness and spice, Poland finds beauty in symbolism and restraint. Christmas begins on December 24 with the ‘Wigilia’ dinner. Twelve meat-free dishes are prepared to honour the twelve apostles, among them beetroot soup with mushroom-filled ravioli, pierogi dumplings with cabbage and mushrooms, herring served in countless variations, and most importantly, carp – roasted or fried – the emblematic dish of the Polish Christmas table. Alcohol is seldom present at this solemn feast, but the mood changes dramatically on New Year’s Eve, when lavish buffets are paired with vodka, beer and sparkling wine, carrying the celebrations late into the night.
In Spain, while Christmas Eve and Day are observed, the heart of the season comes on January 6 with El Día de los Reyes, celebrating the arrival of the Three Wise Men with gifts for the infant Jesus. Children receive their presents on this day, and cities come alive with spectacular parades. On the menu: seafood with cava, roast lamb with powerful local reds, and the sweetness of ‘turrón’ paired with Pedro Ximénez.
Culinary traditions may differ, yet all share the same essence: time spent with loved ones, brightening the winter. @julie_dupouy
CHRISTMAS CHEERS
“La Vida”, Peter Vida, Szekszárd, Hungary, €53; www.pintowines.ie.
Pinot Noir “Sous les Nuages”, Sato, Central Otago, NZ, €48; www.whelehanswines.ie.
McConnell’s Irish Whiskey, Cognac Cask Finish, Ireland, €58; www.celticwhiskeyshop.com.
Cava Reserva Nadal, Organic Brut Nature, Spain, €21.99; www.obrienswine.ie.
Kinsale Wild Forest Whiskey Mead, Ireland, €35; www.kinsalemeadco.ie.
Champagne Bara Grand Rosé de Bouzy, NV, France, €70; www.barossawines.ie.