Who better to ask about tips for vintage shopping in Italy than Dublin-based Italian native Vittoria Caprara, owner of I Can Tell By The Moon vintage boutique in Blackrock, Co Dublin …
Every summer I head home to visit my parents in southern Italy, which also doubles up as an opportunity to source some beautiful clothes and antiques for my vintage shop, I Can Tell By The Moon, in the Blackrock Market.
I always stay at Approdo Spa Resort, overlooking the small fishing port of San Marco di Castellabate, a village in Campania. Run by the same local family since it was founded, the hotel retains echoes of its original 1960s aesthetic with whitewashed walls and lush indoor vegetation. All rooms have romantic balconies overlooking the small harbour. For me, admiring the sunset or watching the fishing boats return in the morning is the moment I know I’m home.
San Marco is also perfect as a base to explore nearby Santa Maria with its bustling seaside promenade, or catch one of the daily boats to the nature reserve of Punta Licosa for a dive into pristine, crystalline waters. For me, it provides a great base to visit vintage markets; I love nothing more than a good rummage through the second-hand stalls to unearth some gems.
Vittoria’s top tips for vintage shopping:
1. Down that double espresso and get out as early as you possibly can (stalls are usually set up and active by 6.30am) for both prime pieces and to make the most of cooler temperatures.
2. Dress down and keep your valuables secure with openings out of view – Italian markets are heaven for pickpockets who easily blend in with the crowd.
3. If you speak the language, be ready to give and take some good banter with stallholders, who always have a clever or funny line at the ready: nail a repartee and there’s your shortcut to that bargain price.
4. Most of all, even when faced with mountains of high street blandness, don’t desist and keep digging. A cute strap or a band of lace might be the clue to the hidden gem you’ve been waiting to find. A word to the wise: when you do find it grab onto it, as anything left on the banco is considered fair game!
5. Chasing markets is my summer pastime but I’ve learned by experience that times and dates tend to vary widely, so always check locally with your hotel/host or online with the individual village ‘Pro Loco’ websites.
Vittoria recommends the following vintage markets in Italy:
Porta Portese, Roma Trastevere (every Sunday). Probably the best loved of all Italian vintage markets, made popular by the eponymous Claudio Baglioni song.
Resina, Ercolano, near Naples (daily, mornings only). This historical vintage market focused around clothing, is a well-known mecca for movie costume designers.
Balon del Sabato di Torino (every Saturday). Be prepared to find a huge variety here from antiques and clothing to highly sought-after books and collectibles.
Mercatone del Naviglio Grande, Milano (every third Sunday of the month). A scenic location with wide ranging goods, from homewares to designer vintage pieces.
Mercato di Santo Spirito in Florence (every second Sunday of every month). Rare books, vintage clothing, décor and more in a historical and gorgeously Instagrammable setting.
Another important part of my downtime when in Italy is just soaking up the atmosphere and people watching. All you need is a cursory look at the evening passeggiata to spot the collective DNA gene that makes Italian outfits sing in a very individual way. Silks that glide off tanned bodies and unbuttoned linen shirts for a hint of sprezzatura [elegance] are the order of the day – always paired with great quality shoes and the addition of one accessory as a focal point, such as a single heavy silver cuff.
For daywear, all-natural fabrics in pristine white are what I personally love to wear, and as such remain at the core of my vintage shop offering. Be it 1950s linen blouses à la Audrey Hepburn paired with tailored shorts or rare antique slips worn as dresses with the addition of leather belts and sandals, in 40°C heat your body won’t settle for anything less.
At its core, I Can Tell By The Moon was born as an expression of my desire to cater to women’s deep-seated feminine, sensual nature regardless of ages and trends: I am sure this instinct is linked to the landscape I come from, and the relentless sunshine, as well as growing up with national icons like Sophia Loren and Gina Lollobrigida being their wild, goddess-like selves, often barefoot and wearing off the shoulder tops.
Some of Vittoria’s other travel recommendations in Italy include:
Speaking of Sophia: if you’d like to go back in time to what could be the set of Il Delfino, check out the village of Vietri Sul Mare on the Amalfi Coast. Unlike overcrowded Positano or overpriced Capri, it is only a few minutes’ bus ride from Salerno train station and remains unchanged with its winding streets, sandy beaches and terraced views suspended between sea and sky. As you wind your way down the cobbled streets to the Marina take in the many hand-painted ceramic shop fronts. Bringing home one of the brightly hand-painted local ceramics from one of the many artisan shops such as D’Urso is a must.
For a trip even further back in time, the archaeological site of Paestum is hard to beat. Mercifully not as well known as Pompeii, it offers the incredible opportunity to walk around the remains of a Greek town that includes houses, a gymnasium, two amphitheatres and, incredibly, paved road slabs that still carry the marks of chariots rushing through. But the real stars of the show are the three perfectly preserved Greek temples that stand proudly in the middle of the scavi, to rival what you would see anywhere in Greece or Sicily. With a combined ticket, head to the Museo for some air-con respite and to enjoy all the treasures that were unearthed within the excavations, including the minimalist masterpiece that is the ‘Tomba del Tuffatore’. A creamy gelato at Caffé Museo just outside will revive your flagging energy and bring you back to the delicious reality of contemporary Italy.
In fact, rather handily, Paestum also happens to be the epicentre of DOP Buffalo Mozzarella-making in Italy, so make sure to stop by one of the many local ‘Tenute’ (such as the taste-tastic Tenuta Vannulo) for a chance to see how these are made in real time and to savour them on location, alongside some delicious pastries, gelatos and yoghurts…now, did I mention those antique slips are also loose fit?
Need to Know: Follow Vittoria on Instagram @bythemoonvintage www.bythemoonvintage.com
