Paris Fashion Week is over and these are just some of the moments that stood out. Scroll for our bite-sized guide to the shows …
Chanel delves into the past
At Chanel, creative director Virginie Viard took us on a magical mystery tour through the 20th century, namely the 1970s via the 1920s – and all the way back to 1912, the year when Gabrielle Chanel opened her hat shop in Deauville. The show recreated the Deauville boardwalk and the fashion to go with it included long, dressing-gown style belted coats alongside tweed suits, while chunky sailor sweaters mingled with silk blouses with middy collars as well as pastel wide-brimmed hats. Culottes, jumpsuits and box pleated skirts all featured and the colour palette ranged from pink, mauve, orange and blue (inspired by the Deauville sky) as well as classic black and gold.
Dior introduced a new (old) logo
A logo dating from the inception of the House’s original ready-to-wear line in 1967, named Miss Dior, was Maria Grazia Chiuri’s jumping off point for the AW24 collection. This reappropriated archival logo was boldly transposed to clothing and bags alike, as seen here in the patent leather flap shoulder bag. According to the show notes, “It was the first time a prestigious house had employed a logo as a decorative device on clothing and accessories, and its use here echoes that significant first step away from the confines of the couture salons in 1967, a time of widespread societal change when women were demanding and attaining new roles in a rapidly modernising world.”
Miu Miu goes grown up
The clothing at the Miu Miu show was designed to span every moment of a woman’s life – from adolescent brights and skin-tight jeans for party girls to WASP-ish pearls, cropped furs and classic double-breasted coats. There was also a white trousers and loafers combination that was a perfect Upper West Side meets coastal grandma amalgamation (excellently modelled by British actress Kristin Scott Thomas who made her runway debut).
Nicolas Ghesquière celebrated ten years at Louis Vuitton
The creative director looked back to previous designs for his tenth anniversary collection, bearing witness to a decade of fashion. Despite this retrospection, many looks were decidedly futuristic – with sharp shoulders, technical fabrics and metallic touches. Presented in the Cour Carrée at the Louvre, an iconic venue for Louis Vuitton shows, it was also the place where Ghesquière presented his first collection exactly ten years ago, on March 5th, 2014. The set was conceived by artist Philippe Parreno in collaboration with film production designer James Chinlund.
A celebration of art at Loewe
After the Loewe show at Paris Fashion Week, Joanthan Anderson took to Instagram to show the intricate craftsmanship that goes into each show piece, starting with a black trench coat with a hand-carved wooden collar that was finished with real silver: talk about striking outerwear. There were also paintings exhibited by American artist Albert York, whose beautiful floral tributes chimed perfectly with the show’s pastoral theme.
Bohemia is back at Chloé
Chemena Kamali held her debut show as creative director at Chloé which was a dedication to louche, 1970s bohemia. “This collection goes back to the late 1970s era of the house that I feel so connected to. A time that was about a natural femininity. Sensual, effortlessly powerful and free,” Kamali said in her notes. There was a lot to love, including ruffled dresses, leather boots that stretched above the knee and cropped trench coats that will no doubt spawn multiple imitations. These are clothes for ‘it’ girls, done right.
It rained from the ceiling at Hermès
Models walked the runway as a heavy downpour set the scene at the Hermès AW24 show hosted at La Garde Républicaine – not only outside, but inside the show too. Creative director Nadège Vanhée incorporated the equestrian touches the house is known for in modern ways – like a brilliant burgundy leather biker jacket, sleek jodhpurs and matching chunky riding boots, while the rain poured down through the centre of the catwalk.
Electric tailoring at Schiaparelli
At Schiaparelli, designer Daniel Roseberry presented an electrified take on tailoring that was powerful and anything but corporate (see the cowboy ties made from faux hair). However, it was the black bodysuit embroidered with sequins and the black wool twill trousers with a low crotch and narrow leg, and a high waist, that inspired: the perfect after dark look.
