The restaurants worth a trip in Spain, Italy, Greece and Portugal …
DE TOKIO A LIMA, PALMA DE MALLORCA, SPAIN
THE ROOM: Perched atop the impossibly chic Can Alomar boutique hotel, this is a rooftop for grown-ups. It’s elegant, cosmopolitan, and offers a bird’s eye view over Palma’s main thoroughfare.
ON THE PLATE: The clue is in the name. Expect a skilful, cross-continental tangle of Peruvian-Japanese-Mediterranean influences: tuna tataki with a citrusy yuzu dressing; Iberico pork with a fiery rocoto pepper sauce; and a zingy seabass ceviche. Wash it all down with a pisco sour.
WHAT ELSE? De Tokio a Lima is the ideal stop-off after a day spent poking around the city’s galleries and boutiques. Do yourself a favour and book for sunset – there’s magic in the way the light hits the cathedral while you sip something fizzy. Sant Feliu, Palma, Majorca; www.boutiquehotelcanalomar.com.
O FOROS, PALEO PERITHIA, CORFU, GREECE
THE ROOM: Tucked away in the sleepy village of Old Perithia – one of Corfu’s oldest, most picture-perfect hamlets – O Foros is an under-the-radar spot with a loyal following of those in the know. A tiny al fresco space with rustic stone walls, checked tablecloths, and ancient vines that drape to protect from the glaring sun, guests go for the excellent food, and stay for owner Thomas’s hospitality (and his excellent house wine).
ON THE PLATE: Hyper-local dishes like melt-in-the-mouth lamb with lemony potatoes, or my favourite, the chicken pastitsada, pasta with a tomatoey meat sauce. Ingredients are sourced from the owners’ garden and surrounding countryside, and everything is cooked in a tiny kitchen under the watchful eye of Thomas’ very skilled wife. The walnut cake alone has a devout herd of followers.
WHAT ELSE?: Rick Stein featured O Foros on his show some years ago. They’re not online, so call in advance to book. O Foros, Paleo Perithia, Corfu; 0030 695 595 0459.
CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI, NAPLES, ITALY
THE ROOM: From the outside, you’d be forgiven for mistaking Concettina for just another Neapolitan pizzeria. But inside, it’s theatrical; a blur of tattooed pizzaiolos in colourful caps flinging dough like it’s performance art. It’s loud, chaotic and fabulous, and the best tables are in the pretty garden.
ON THE PLATE: The family has been making pizza since 1951, and this is pizza elevated to an art form. The dough is fermented, pillowy, and slightly sour; toppings range from slow-cooked ragù to delicate dollops of buffalo ricotta. The “Pizza Degustazione” is a must: a blind tasting menu of pizza, essentially, which sounds both outrageous and wonderful.
WHAT ELSE?: Concettina is in the low-key Sanità neighbourhood, a proper slice of Naples – gritty, noisy and authentic. There is also a second location in Capri. Bookings open 30 days in advance, so set those reminders. Via Arena della Sanità, Napoli; www.concettinaaitresanti.com
MAR DO INFERNO, CASCAIS, PORTUGAL
THE ROOM: Clinging to the rocky coast near Boca do Inferno in Cascais, this family-run spot is pure Atlantic drama with a hint of New England charm. With white tablecloths fluttering in the breeze, the uninterrupted views over the ocean make Mar do Inferno a perfect pick for a seafood feast, especially at sunset.
ON THE PLATE: Some of the freshest seafood you’ll likely ever taste. Grilled tiger prawns slick with olive oil, seafood rice so generous you’ll need to be rolled home, and clams swimming in garlicky juice that should be mopped up with crusty bread. No frills, just the perfect communion of fish and fire.
WHAT ELSE?: This is the kind of place where lunch turns into dinner without anyone blinking. Book ahead, wear loose clothing, and bring someone you fancy. There’s something in the salt air. Cascais, Portugal; www.mardoinferno.pt.
ULTRAMARINOS MARÍN, BARCELONA, SPAIN
THE ROOM: Imagine an asador, a bar, and a Wes Anderson set. Ultramarinos Marín is a retro space housed in a former bar just off Avenida Diagonal, with high ceilings and original tiled floors. There’s a long bar to the front and a lively dining room to the rear. The space has just enough edge to make it buzzy, but not enough to ruin the charm.
ON THE PLATE: This isn’t your basic patatas bravas joint. The chefs at Ultramarinos Marín know their way around seafood – and then some. Think chargrilled octopus with paprika oil, fresh shellfish, and excellent charcuterie and cured meats made in-house. There are still plenty of nods to tradition, with giant hunks of beef cooked over an olive wood fire.
WHAT ELSE?: Perfect for a long, lazy lunch after a wander around the city, or a late dinner where you accidentally end up staying way too late, vermouth in hand. It’s that kind of place. Book a seat at the counter for a front-row view of the action. Carrer de Balmes, Barcelona; www.ultramarinosmarin.com.
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