Table-side theatrics transform a dining experience. If it’s not served from a trolley with a dramatic flourish – it’s not for me. Bring on the Crêpes Suzette or the Irish coffees, the golden age is back so embrace it …
The Champagne Trolley: Ashford Castle, Co Mayo
For many, a visit to Ashford Castle is the dream and dining at George V restaurant is the pinnacle of that dream. The stunning Waterford Crystal chandeliers, and rich, panelled walls provide the perfect backdrop to chef Liam Finnegan’s food and ending the meal with a cheese course, served from a table side trolley, is the perfect finale. There is also the option of choosing a beef course (for two) also carved table side but George V feels like a room to eat lashings of devilishly delicious cheese. Did I mention the champagne trolley? As if I needed another reason to visit. I mean, if it’s good enough for Joan from Mad Men (aka Christina Hendricks, who says it’s one of her “‘favourite places on earth”), then it’s good enough for me. www.ashfordcastle.com
The Irish Coffee: Chapter One, Dublin 1
One of Ireland’s best dining experiences, the food at Chapter One has garnered legions of loyal fans over the years. Yes, Mickael Viljanen’s cooking is outstanding and the clamour for tables does mean sourcing a reservation can often feel like an Olympic sport. That said, one of the most memorable parts of dining at Chapter One is the after-dinner table side Irish coffee which has its very own fan base. The coffee is prepared on a copper pan using Jameson (stout edition) whiskey, a touch of which is flambéed table side before the coffee is added, then more whiskey before the entire, delicious concoction is seamlessly poured into a glass and topped with cold cream. Regardless of how much you enjoy the food at Chapter One, make sure you keep room for an after-dinner Irish coffee. You won’t regret it. www.chapteronerestaurant.com
The Roast Beef Trolley: Dunraven Arms, Adare, Co Limerick
There is little as good in this world as a traditional Sunday roast, and at The Maigue Restaurant at The Dunraven Arms in beautiful Adare, it’s a spectacular treat. Carved table side on a gleaming mahogany and silver trolley, the beef (cooked to your liking) is served with homemade horseradish sauce, red wine jus, plus a host of traditional accompaniments. Finish your meal with a generous portion of warm apple crumble and retire fireside with the Sunday paper, and digest. The roast beef trolley is also available on the dinner menu but for us, it’s all about the Sunday lunch. www.dunravenhotel.com
The Martini Cart: The Sidecar, The Westbury, Dublin 2
Possibly one of the best cocktail bars in the city, an ice cold martini at The Sidecar, The Westbury’s glamorous 1930s-style bar, is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Watching the masters at work is a theatrical treat for the senses and redefines the entire martini experience. Whether you choose a vesper (shaken with both gin and vodka), a gibson (garnished with a pickled onion), wet (more Vermouth) or dry (less Vermouth), the martini at The Sidecar might just be the best in the city. While you’re there, pick up a copy of the cocktail book, High Society, to conjure up your favourite concoctions at home. www.doylecollection.com
Oysters and Champagne: Lir, Coleraine Marina, Coleraine
The last year or so Lir has been very on-trend. It started with a stunning review by Jay Rayner in The Guardian in May 2023, and more recently, an appearance on BBC’s The One Show, plus, a feature in US publication, Postcards. Smack bang in the middle of these two events came the oyster and champagne trolley, which is another reason to add Lir to your list (if you are anything like me, you have a list). Oysters and bubbles are served table side with a choice of condiments (buttermilk espuma and wild garlic oil anyone?). The oysters are Foyle Bia Mara Speciales which take between 24 and 36 months to reach maturity, during which time they are attended to by hand by local oyster producers. www.lirseafood.com