Wine Editor Julie Dupouy Talks Rich Rhônes

Julie Dupouy sips from the Southern Rhône Valley…

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I love all wine styles but my decision on what to drink is highly influenced by the time of the year. As the weather gets colder, my “goo” for rich, smooth, comforting and savoury reds powers back into the lead. There are many wines that fit that description but when it comes to marrying pleasure with value for money, the Southern Rhône Valley is always a top contender.

The Southern Rhône accounts for about 95 per cent of all wines produced in the Rhône Valley, of which 75 per cent are red. Unlike the Northern Rhône, where Syrah holds court, the Southern Rhône appellations are generally blends of Grenache and other Mediterranean varieties. These varieties include Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan which all play important supporting roles when it comes to adding structure, depth of colour and aromatic complexity. Cinsault is often used to add finesse and freshness.

The Southern Rhône enjoys a Mediterranean climate and its landscape is shaped by sprawling plains, hills and mountains covered by scrublands, olive trees, lavender and of course, vines. The Mistral wind blows fiercely across the valley and helps keep the vines dry and healthy, especially after summer thunder storms and autumnal rainfalls.

A diverse patchwork of soils exist in the region – alluvial, limestone, sand, gravel and clay – but the most famous of all are the galets roulés (pudding stones) of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region. These stones, present in part of the appellation, make the landscape particularly striking – the almost “surface of the moon” look, punctuated by bush vines, is truly breathtaking.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Provence

Châteauneuf-du-Pape is produced in both red and white and can be made with up to 13 different grape varieties. The area covers 3,200 hectares and the styles of the wines produced can vary greatly depending on the area it comes from within the appellation and of course, the producers. Frankly, while some very impressive wines are produced in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the consistency of the overall production is rather disappointing and the alcohol levels are often reaching those of fortified wines. Truth be told, there are numerous more interesting, digest, characterful wines from the region offering super value for their prices.

While Châteauneuf-du-Pape is the most “prestigious” Southern Rhône appellation, the Côtes du Rhône AOP is the largest. It covers the entire Rhône Valley from north to south and nearly 50 per cent of the wines sold from there bear that name. Most of the wines produced are red, although whites and rosés do exist too. The quality of the wine ranges from light, easy drinking, fruit forward and inexpensive to complex, savoury and ageworthy, commanding a little more investment.

The Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellation is a superior classification for white, rosé and red from designated areas within the Southern Rhône. As of 2024, 22 communes may suffix their names to the appellation such as Massif d’Uchaux, Plan de Dieu or Puyméras. Generally speaking, these wines have more depth, complexity and potential for ageing. The age and health of the vines, the vintage, terroir and the producer’s approach all have an impact on the quality and style of the finished wines. Simon Tyrrell, Irish winemaker at Les Deux Cols, kindly shared with me his opinion on the commune of Visan: “It is one of the hidden gems of the Côtes du Rhône,” he says, “producing some beautiful Syrah-based wines full of perfume and reminiscent of its Northern Rhône cousins, at unbeatable prices for the quality.”

WHEN SET ASIDE FOR A FEW YEARS, THEY CAN DEVELOP INTO INCREDIBLY COMPLEX AND REFINED WINES.

Over the years, several former Côtes du Rhône-Villages communes have been awarded their own appellation. Gigondas and Vacqueyras are the most well-known and deservedly so. Both are planted near the Dentelles de Montmirail, a beautiful chain of mountains whose name translates as the “lace of Montmirail”, after the way erosion has carved it over time. Gigondas produces fleshy and dense red wines with generous aromas of ripe red and black fruits that can evolve into beautiful, earthy, even truffly, aromas over time. Red Vacqueyras are aromatic, powerful, yet display a defined freshness and finesse. When set aside for a few years, they can develop into incredibly complex and refined wines.

In the southwestern part of the Southern Rhône, just north of the Lubéron, sits the Ventoux region. The area is known for its national parks and their incredible biodiversity. Mont Ventoux is the highest peak of the Rhône Valley, at 1,912 metres in elevation, and has been designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve site since 1990. Despite its location in the warmth of southern France, the micro climate around Mont Ventoux produces some of the freshest wines in this part of France. All of these factors contribute to the production of top class white, rosé and red wines which are fresh and aromatic yet still carry proudly their Mediterranean character.

From north to south and east to west, 60,000 hectares are dedicated to viticulture in the Southern Rhône. The influence of great rivers, mountains, forests, winds and soil types have been harnessed by the careful hands of numerous men and women who have been making wine here for centuries. The savoir-faire here runs deep. And a little “savoir-where” should hopefully direct you to one of the many wonderful independent wine merchants throughout Ireland which always have a great choice from this part of the wine world.

SAVOURY REDS