Compact and easily navigated – with much more than a famous balcony to gaze at – Verona is packed with history and, of course, irresistible food and wine …
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Verona is dubbed the city of love, with a visit of Juliet’s purported tomb and her famous balcony, high on most visitors’ to do list. Whether you are a Shakespeare fan or not, there is a romantic feel about the city that lies on the river Adige and is housed within crenelated walls. Since 2000, its historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
We have the Romans to thank for some of Verona’s architectural marvels, including Piazza del Erbe – once a Roman forum now home to the Torre dei Lamberti – a soaring brick tower with great views over the hilltop fortress of Castel San Pietro. The ancient Arena, built for gladiatorial combat in the 1st Century AD, is the setting for some of Italy’s finest opera. During the summer months, opera devotees can expect a bit of Bizet and lots of Verdi (seeing Aida in the open air is spectacular).
For the best (and most Instagrammable) view of the city, walk over the Ponte Pietra – a Roman bridge built around 100BC – and take the funicular up the hill to Castel San Pietro. Equally stunning, but hidden from public view, is the Basilica of San Zeno. It looks rather plain from the outside, but the church contains some real treasures, including 1,000-year-old bronze doors with 48 scenes sculpted from the Bible. On the walls, visitors can also see some graffiti dating from the 13th-century.
Oenophiles will know Verona is in the heart of wine country, with valpolicella the local tipple. Try Antica Bottega del Vino, more of a bar with snacks at the front, where the wine list runs to 180 pages. There’s a restaurant at the back, where Venetian pasta with beans is one of the tempting specialities. The family-owned Greppia restaurant is popular with locals and visitors, where risotto cooked with Amarone wine and pumpkin is a standout dish. Trattoria Al Bersagliere is another insider recommendation, with dishes including codfish ravioli or bigoli pasta with duck sauce. If you find yourself on Corso Porta Bursari, check out Melegatti panetteria, where a must-buy is the city’s famous pandoro. (I always prefer this to the seasonal panettone). And what’s a mini break without some shopping? Head to Via Mazzini and Corso Porta Borsari, catnip for fashionistas. Local boutiques worth visiting include Acqua del Garda for scents inspired by the region, Patrizia Prencipe for edgy clothing and accessories, and Sottosopra33 for vintage-inspired style. Afterwards head to Piazza Bra, home to lots of great cafés.
Here’s where to stay:
Palazzo Monga Boutique Guesthouse
Located in an 18th-century palazzo, this guesthouse offers a trifecta of delights: gorgeous décor, spacious suites and a central location. The historical Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza dei Signori are a five-minute stroll away, as is what is claimed to be Juliet’s house. Check out Juliet’s Club, where volunteers reply to letters sent by the lovelorn to Shakespeare’s most famous heroine from all over the world. This tradition began during the 1930s when Ettore Solimani (guardian of Juliet’s supposed tomb) began to collect letters people left at her grave. He started replying and became known as “Juliet’s secretary”. Since then, letters have been hand-written, but also sent by email, text and even WhatsApp. All are read and translated for visitors to read as part of the Juliet Club Archive. www.palazzomonga.com
Hotel Indigo
At this hotel, guests will find four-star comfort, sophisticated interiors, impeccable service and an impressive art collection. Visit Giardino Giusti, which dates back to the 15th century, and is a relaxing garden with cypress trees, fountains and grottos. www.hotelindigo.com
Vista Verona
This elegant boutique hotel is the only hotel in Verona with an indoor swimming pool, as part of its spa offering, which also has Romeo’s Well – a thermal suite with jacuzzi, Turkish bath, saunas and showers. Its terrace is a great place to start any evening in the city with an aperitivo. The hotel’s Sottovoce Restaurant offers tasting menus, with a focus on traditional recipes, using local ingredients. www.vistapalazzo.com
Butterfly Verona
This boutique townhouse hotel houses six rooms, including three suites, and an apartment decorated in shades of grey and khaki with plenty of contemporary designer furniture (Baxter, Poltrona Frau and Tooy). There is no restaurant, but chef Giancarlo Perbelllini provides a welcome box of pastries, with a free minibar too. He also has a handful of restaurants in Verona, including Pizzeria Du De Cope and seafood restaurant El Capitan, where innovative dishes are a speciality. For another feast for the eyes, dine at 12 Apostoli, with its tempting menu and precious frescos lining its walls. www.vistapalazzo.com
Byblos Art Hotel
Located in a renaissance villa just outside Verona, it is surrounded by vineyards, and is a mere 30 minutes by car to Lake Garda. Inside are over 180 pieces of modern art by Jean-Michel Basquiat, Vanessa Beecroft, Damian Hirst and Ettore Sottsass, which decorate guest rooms and communal areas. Corridors on each level are decorated in an artistic theme, from street to pop art. To complete any arty visit to Verona, don’t miss Palazzo Maffei Casa Museo, which also houses an extraordinary art collection dating back five centuries. Climb up to its terrace for other great views of the city. www.byblosarthotel.com
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