Where to Find The Most Interesting Vintage Fine Jewellery and Watches - The Gloss Magazine
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Where to Find The Most Interesting Vintage Fine Jewellery and Watches

Whether you are interested in contemporary, retro or period pieces, the roll call of brands at Adam’s forthcoming Fine Jewellery and Watches sale is magnificent …

Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Cartier, Chopard, David Webb, Hermès, Longines, Margherita Burgener, Rolex, Tiffany & Co and Van Cleef & Arpels … the roll call of brands featured in Adam’s upcoming auction of “Fine Jewellery and Watches” offers a magnificent selection of contemporary, retro and period pieces for collectors and civilians alike.

Among the lots is a wonderful selection of engagement rings in a variety of styles that meet every price point. From a stunning brilliant-cut diamond (with an estimate of €1,500 – €2,000, or lot 171, from €800 – €1,000) to a jaw-dropping fancy yellow diamond, (lot 85, with an estimate of €18,000 – €22,000) which is the perfect ring to mark a very special occasion.

A highlight of sale, carefully curated by Claire Mestrallet, Head of Jewellery at Adam’s, is the private collection of an aristocratic Italian lady who was particularly fond of Bulgari pieces. Some of the stellar pieces of this collection include lot 95, “A Rare Hawk’s Eye and Diamond bird brooch” by the renowned Pierre Sterlé from the 1950s, with an estimate of €12,000 – €18,000. Perhaps the jewel in the crown is lot 103, a 1960s ribbon-bow diamond brooch, by Bulgari, whose diamonds total to a whopping 20.00cts, (and an estimate of €18,000 – €28,000).

Do peruse the online catalogue which includes a fascinating insight into the relationship between jewellers and artists, with a focus on collaborations between prolific master goldsmith Francois Hugo and some of the most famous artists of the 20th century. A complete rarity in the jewellery world and a collector’s item for all art fans, is a 23k gold pendant by André Derain (lot 54, estimate €17,000 – €23,000), a pair of 18K gold cufflinks by Jean Cocteau (lot 55, estimate €2,000 – €3,000), and last, but certainly not least, a sculptural 22K gold brooch by Pablo Picasso (lot 56, estimate €10,000 – €15,000).

Here’s some of the other pieces which caught my eye …

Lot 6: A diamond “Tubogas Serpenti” ring by Bulgari

Composed of a gold sprung gas-pipe link hoop, terminating in a collet-set pear-shaped diamond, in 18K yellow gold, this adjustable ring has an estimate of €3,500 – €4,500. 

Lot 19:  An early 20th-century diamond novelty brooch, c1925 

Designed as a galloping horse, this brooch is set with single-cut diamonds throughout, with a circular-cut ruby for and eye, with millegrain detailing. The brooch is mounted in platinum (its pin is in 18K gold). It has an estimate of €2,200 – €2,800.

Lot 23: An art deco sapphire and diamond bracelet, c1925 

Of geometric design, set with fancy-cut sapphire and European-cut diamond links, interspersed by old single-cut diamond connectors, with millegrain detailing throughout, the bracelet is mounted in gold, diamonds approximately 3.40cts total. It has an estimate of €3,500 – €4,500. 

Lot 38: An important emerald and diamond bracelet, c1945 

Of geometric openwork design, with graduated cabochon emeralds, within a surround of European and baguette-cut diamonds, this bracelet is mounted in platinum, with diamonds approximately 30.00cts total, emeralds approximately 45.00cts total, length 18.3cm. The estimate is €30,000 –  €40,000. 

Lot 86: A pair of fancy yellow diamond and diamond pendent earrings 

Each earring is set with a cut-cornered rectangular-shaped yellow diamond weighing 3.01 and 3.38cts, framed with brilliant-cut diamonds, to a similarly-cut diamond surmount, mounted in platinum and 18K gold. The earrings are accompanied by a report from the GIA laboratory in America, stating that the diamond weighing 3.01cts, is natural, Fancy Light Yellow, VVS1 clarity (with laser inscriptions). Estimate: €30,000 – €40,000.


Lot 102: A rare retro sapphire and diamond Tubogas bracelet by Bulgari, c1940 

The large coiled gold tubogas bracelet, with two spherical terminals highlighted with sapphire cabochons and brilliant-cut diamonds within collet-setting, is mounted in 18K gold. The bracelet is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Amanda Triossi, former curator of the Bulgari Heritage Collection and curator of all the major Bulgari retrospective exhibitions from 2009 to 2013, stating that this bracelet was manufactured for and retailed by Bulgari and dates from the 1940s. The estimate is €10,000 – €15,000.


Lot 103:  An important diamond bow brooch by Bulgari, c1960 

The three-dimensional ribbon-bow set with brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in 18K gold and platinum, diamonds approximately 20.00cts total, is signed Bulgari, and has an estimate of €18,000 – €28,000.


Lot 115: A pair of sapphire and diamond earrings by Margherita Burgener 

Each earring is circular bombé plaque pavé-set throughout with circular-cut sapphires, the circular-shaped motif to the reverse set with brilliant-cut diamond accents, mounted in blue titanium and 18K gold. The estimate is €3,000 – €4,000.


Lot 132: A sapphire and diamond cluster ring, from the first quarter of the 20th-century 

The elongated oval-shaped sapphire weighing approximately 6.46cts within a twelve-claw setting, framed by old brilliant-cut diamonds and similarly-cut diamond shoulders, mounted in 18K gold and platinum, diamonds approximately 2.50cts total. The estimate is €22,000 – €28,000.

Need to Know: Viewing begins on Friday, September 10 until Tuesday September 14 from 10am – 5pm. The auction will take place at 6pm on Tuesday, September 14, at Adam’s sales room, with bidding online, over the phone and a limited number of bidders in the sales room, subject to government guidelines. For further information visit www.adams.ie.



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