A delicious recipe from Irina Georgescu’s new book Danube ….
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“We are very fond of walnuts and quince in Romania, and quince trees seem to be in every single garden in the south, especially in Dobrogea. They have the perfect climate here, and people make compôtes for the winter, which are canned poached quince, or use them in stews with rice and even make brandy. I played with these ingredients to make a light cake to capture Dobrogea’s autumnal (or winter) flavours. Fennel also grows in the fields and in gardens, having originally been brought to these ancient lands by the Romans.” @irina.r.georgescu
Walnut and fennel seed cake with clotted cream and poached quince
Makes a 900 g (2 lb) loaf cake
Ingredients
For the Cake
65 ml (2 fl oz/ 1/4 cup) sunflower oil, plus extra for greasing
3 medium eggs, separated
50 g (2 oz/generous 1/4 cup) light brown sugar
65 g (2 1/4 oz/ 1/4 cup) sour cream
25 ml (scant 2 tablespoons) rum or any brandy
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or paste
100 g (3 1/2 oz/generous 3/4 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour
10 g (1/2 oz/2 teaspoons) baking powder
a pinch of salt
120 g (4 oz) walnuts, finely chopped
5 g (1 teaspoon) dried fennel seeds
For the Poached Quince
500 ml (17 fl oz/2 cups) water
80 g (3 oz/1/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar
25 ml (scant 2 tablespoons) runny honey (not raw)
zest and juice of 1 medium lemon
4–5 thyme sprigs
3 rosemary sprigs
1 tablespoon dried camomile (optional)
1 vanilla pod (bean), split, or 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 medium quince
To Serve
Icing (powdered) sugar, for dusting
200 g (7 oz/generous 3/4 cup) clotted cream or extra thick double (heavy) cream
Method
1. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan (310°F/gas 2). Grease and line a 900 g (2 lb) loaf pan.
2. Using an electric mixer, whisk the egg whites to soft peaks, then add the light brown sugar and whisk for 1 minute on high speed. Add the egg yolks one at a time, then the oil and sour cream, incorporating well after each addition. Flavour with rum and vanilla.
3. In a separate bowl, mix the flour with the baking powder and salt, then sift over the egg mixture, folding a couple of times with a large metal spoon. Fold in the walnuts and fennel seeds, making sure there are no dry patches.
4. Pour the batter into the loaf pan and bake for 30 minutes, or until a cocktail stick (toothpick) inserted in the middle of the cake comes out clean. Turn out of the pan onto a cooling rack.
5. Meanwhile, make the poached quince. Mix the water, caster sugar, honey, lemon zest and juice, herb sprigs and vanilla in a large pan and bring to the boil. Quarter the quince and remove the cores. Cut each quarter into two. Place the slices in the pan as you go along, then reduce the heat to low and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or until soft. Turn the heat off and leave to cool.
6. Slice the cake and dust it with icing sugar. Serve with the quince slices on the side, topped with a spoonful of clotted cream. Drizzle some of the poaching liquid around each slice.
Extract from Danube by Irina Georgescu (£28, Hardie Grant) Photography by Issy Croker.