Style cues from Scandi trailblazers in the Danish capital …
Copenhagen Fashion Week has long been hailed as the quiet power player in the international style scene. With an impressive environmental ethos, a magnetic pull for expressive street style and a reputation for celebrating Nordic design tenets, this season proved no different.
The looks contained within the 44 shows and presentations staged citywide for SS26 ranged from subversive to subdued, satiating minimalists and maximalists in equal measure. Highlights included the re-emergence of Freya Dalsjø and Rave Review, the bolstering of cult labels Skall Studio and The Garment, and the return of seasoned Scandinavian design houses Rotate and Cecilie Bahnsen.
These are some of the trends they amplified, from a quintessentially Scandinavian aptitude for layering and tailoring to a penchant for prints and personality-alluding accessories.
A Proliferation Of Polka Dots
Caro Editions SS26
The pattern’s popularity shows no signs of waning, as its prominence within this year’s CPHFW indicates. Caro Editions’ collection, in collaboration with heritage brand Mulberry, leaned heavily into the print with their vividly coloured blouses, bags and stylish headscarves.
Rolf Ekroth SS26
In Finnish label Rolf Ekroth’s utilitarian SS26 presentation, models wore bold polka prints from head to toe.
Closing Copenhagen Fashion Week, Rotate’s take on the trend was characteristically sophisticated with a racy edge, sending models down the catwalk in boho-inspired silhouettes rendered in diaphanous polka-dotted chiffon.
In Love With Lace
As evident from the city’s cutting-edge street style scene as it was on the catwalk, inticately patterned, lightweight laces are the textile of choice for the style set at the moment.
From vintage white lace peasant dresses à la Skall Studio to delicate lace slips and gauzy floor-sweeping skirts, it can be styled myriad ways.
Herskin SS26
Paired with chunky knits, trench coats or peeking out discreetly from understated tops, its potential lingers long past summer. All you have to do is layer accordingly for a chic and fuss-free transition into autumn.
A Spectrum Of Blue
Are cherry reds being eschewed in favour of blue hues? It certainly seems so. From cerulean to icy tints, blue is poised as next season’s primary colour of note.
IAMISIGO SS26
Shades of blue were a major focal point of collections this year. While Zalando Visionary Award recipient IAMISGO’s audacious, sculptural silhouettes are an apt choice for the adventurous consumer, classic denims and bright blue dresses from Munthe and Birrot resonated with those searching for more muted, elegant contributions to their spring/summer wardrobes.
The Garment SS26
For those with crimson ennui, turn to these cool tones to infuse your wardrobe with a pop of colour. Or even better, try blue and burgundy together for an unexpected style pairing that pleases the eye.
Personality Hats
Rave Review SS26
While silk headscarves and crotchet caps reigned supreme in the street style stakes, the array of hats showcased on runways was decidedly more haphazard.
Baum und Pferdgarten and Rave Review were just two of the labels honing in on eclectic headwear, debuting tongue-in-cheek takes on equestrian helmets and starched plaid bonnets. Meanwhile, IAMISGO and OpéraSport reinvented embellished swimming caps and large rimmed hats rendered in outrageous proportions.
50 Shades Of White
A sea of whites punctuated the SS26 shows, with the serene neutrals signalling the embrace of a more simplistic approach. Although renowned for their maximalism, Danish It girls are equally well versed in pulling luxuriously blanched, monochromatic fits together, and channel this cool aesthetic effortlessly.
For SS26, whites were most effective when contrasted with eye-catching colours or combined into exquisitely tactile textures, like vintage lace, crotchet or mesh embellishment (see Kettel Atelier or Taus). Equally alluring were Freya Dalsjø and Stel’s takes, where silhouettes were distilled with pristine white silks, thick wools and streamlined cottons.
Cecilie Bahnsen SS26
Cecilie Bahnsen’s innovations were feminine and frothy. The distinguished Danish designer unleashed creations executed in whimsical whites exclusively – with models (led by Björk’s daughter, Ísadóra Bjarkardóttir Barney) ensconced in her ethereal, albeit voluminous, organza and taffeta frocks.
Coordinating Accessories
Nothing screams composure more than matching accessories, at least sartorially speaking.
A key component of this trend involves flaunting bags in the precise colourways of select garments or shoes.
OpéraSport SS26
Those produced in identical, niche prints to compliment your attire are more impressive still, as demonstrated by Skall Studio.
Flat Footwear
Cementing its status as the footwear of the moment, flip flops were as ubiquitous at CPHFW this year as they are on the Amalfi Coast during a heatwave.
Poised to remain a go-to this summer and next, the thong silhouette is a firm favourite amongst fashion enthuasists. Of particular interest was the unveiling of Zellerfeld’s 3D-printed collaboration with flip flop aficionados Havaianas at OpéraSport’s poolside SS26 show.
Rotate SS26
Transitional Trenches
Trench coats are a transeasonal mainstay that simply never go out of fashion.
This year, however, pioneering Scandinavian fashion labels reimagined the humble trench to reach its full potential for SS26 wardrobes.
Gestuz SS26
Throw on a classic gabardine iteration over tailored suiting, loosely belted and flowing with neutral casualwear. Or mix and match with silk micro shorts and cashmere cardigans à la Rotate.
Rotate SS26
Statement Stripes
Gone are subdued seersucker stripes or the subtle breton stripes favoured by the French.
Munthe SS26
Brilliantly coloured rugby shirts and long striped sleeves in ebullient shades took their place, juxtaposed with cheery skirts or pared-back denim.
Textural Layering
Layered insouciance is in. The skill of tastefully pulling together an ensemble without it looking too staged or superfluous is one you should aim to emulate, especially as we welcome colder weather.
Aiayu SS26
With their signature earthy tones and soft natural materials, Maria Høgh Heilmann’s Aiayu celebrated 20 years with a masterclass in laissez-faire dressing. Think: crisp co-ords combined with overcoats and hand-crafted sleeveless vests.
Structured suiting matched with casually knotted cardigans or shoulder-skimming scarves also struck a chord, as did The Garment’s minimalistic tailoring which was teamed with billowing trousers and breezily draped overcoats.
SEE MORE: 8 Striking Street Style Looks From Copenhagen Fashion Week
